Tag: Rangoon

Categories
Conflict & disaster

[2997] The broken city walls of Mandalay

All countries are beautiful in their own way and Myanmar is a beautiful country indeed.

When the country just emerged out of its isolationist cocoon and optimism was sweeping through its population in the early 2010s, I had the opportunity to witness the liberalization of Myanmar firsthand by travelling approximately 2,000km for about 3 weeks from Yangon to Mandalay by buses, trains, cars, motorbikes and boats. What surprised me at first back then was that Yangon did not strike me as a particularly poor city. It seemed the democratic dividend was paying off.

But as with most countries, the reality in the capital does not always reflect that of the whole country. Kuala Lumpur feels and looks like an advanced ultramodern economy when taken out of context of the whole of Malaysia.

There is beauty in urbanity but it was the slow progress of modernity in the 2010s that made the country beautiful. Beyond the limits of Yangon within its glittering Shwedagon Pagoda and a confusing mix of brand new right-hand and left-hand drive vehicles on the road all at once, life was slower. The old ways still held fort. When I reached the famed romanticized city of Mandalay after a long train ride sitting next to a Buddhist monk, I felt I was entering a different country.

Myanmar has since slided back. The Rohingya crisis has made the country less popular in the region. Democratic progress has been rolled back. Civil war has taken hold. When I found myself travelling in northern Thailand recently, driving along the Myanmar border, Thai troops maintained high alert, stopping everybody with no exception to ensure that the situation remained safe on this side of the world. On the back of the range that divides Thailand from Myanmar, I could spy deep into the Shan state. Things were quiet and they gave no clue of the raging civil war happening far across the mountains.

Somewhere in Sagaing across the Irrawaddy river from Mandalay (I cannot recall the location exactly now but I think it was in Sagaing), there was a large cuboid temple standing 40 to 50 meters tall. The temple had a large crack running from the top to the bottom caused by an earthquake during pre-colonial times. Back then as I stood in wonder of the crack, that earthquake was an academic curiosity.

A strong earthquake has struck Mandalay this week and pictures of devastation are coming out online. Bridges have collapsed. Pagodas cracked and crumbled. Houses gone. Parts of the old city walls now suffer from gashes. I have been to some of those places and it breaks my heart to see them in such devastation.

I hope we Malaysians will help Myanmar even in our current state of politics where racism, xenophobia and general meanness is on the rise. Malaysia is the chair of Asean this year and Asean has failed the people of Myanmar in so many ways. This is a chance to redeem ourselves from all those failures, even if the window is only for partial redemption.

Categories
Photography Society Travels

[2721] A way of life as a product of tourism

I am at that stage when I am way too lazy to blog serious stuff. I blame it on Twitter.

So, more pictures. Let us hope with this one, I am less careless with the grammar. I have re-read some of the recent entries, and oh my god, embarrassing. Still…

I present to you, the Shwedagon pagoda.

20131216Rangoon (168)

Shwedagon is big and it is impressive but I think multiple writings exaggerate how it dominates Rangoon’s skyline. It might have in the old days, but you will not see it from downtown Rangoon. Nor at night, the lights reflected from Shwedagon’s golden stupa would fill the night sky (okay, maybe it did a little bit). This is just not the Empire State Building or the Petronas Twin Towers where you can spot it miles away. Those writers just have too much poetic license.

The approach to Shwedagon is great nevertheless. I walked from the downtown to Shwedagon, which was probably 4km-5km apart. At first I saw nothing. Just houses and barracks and trees. After awhile, a huge golden structure appeared at the end of that long road I was on.

I spent about 3 to 4 hours there. Not that it takes that much time to go explore the pagoda. This is not Angkor Wat or even Borobodur. It lacks details. You see them and you walk to the next thing. There is not Churning of the Milky Ocean kind of thing.

It was just that the human behavior was so interesting. It provided me with countless opportunities for photography. I wished I had a tripod with me since it got more interesting after sundown.

At some point while watching tourists snapping pictures of monks and praying Buddhists, a thought came to me: has Buddhism become a touristic attraction itself?

I mean, visitors just go round and round, coming in none stop, taking pictures of devotees and monks. While it is nice to have the religion being so friendly and open to tourists and outsiders, I do feel, somehow, the religion has been… commercialized, becoming a subject of camera shots.

A way of life becomes nothing but a product of tourism.

I remember in Mandalay, as monks walked across the Amarapura bridge, a tourist with his big camera probably worth thousands of dollars, with lens so big, you would need a stand to support it, pointing it to a monk, almost to the face, if I can have that poetic license to myself. The monk was miffed. Such disrespect, I would think he said. The monk made a gesture, telling him no.

A revolt from commercialization, maybe?

Categories
Photography Travels

[2719] Bogyoke Market, Rangoon

This is right in the middle of Rangoon. The market is formerly called Scott’s Market but like all good post-colonial governments, they renamed it to get rid of the colonial legacy. Bogyoke Aung San, the person which the market is named after, was responsible for the independence of Burma. He was also the father of Aung San Suu Kyi

Bogyoke Market

Categories
Photography Society Travels

[2718] The train to Mandalay

I spent about 3 weeks in Burma recently, traveling roughly 2,000 km in Burma by trains, buses, cars, trucks and bikes. I began in Rangoon, went up north to Mandalay, west to Bagan, east to Inle and then back to Rangoon for the new year’s eve celebration. I love Burma. The people there are nice. You can just feel it all around you.

There are so many things to write, but I will just leave this picture here for now. It was somewhere north of Rangoon and far south from Naypyidaw, Burma’s own Putrajaya. It was about 2 or 3 hours into the journey to Mandalay.

Or maybe, I should share this as well: Burma does not appear to be a poor country. Neither does it appear to be a country under economic sanction or under military dictatorship. There is poverty and I saw it in many places, but it does appear Burma is farther along the development curve than, say, Cambodia. I had expected Burma to be as poor as Cambodia but I was wrong. To me, Rangoon specifically, felt modern. There were many new cars on the roads and the streets were paved and smooth. Not as modern as Kuala Lumpur but Rangoon is not a capital of a too poor a country. Upon landing in Rangoon and leaving the airport behind, those facts immediately struck me. My expectation of Rangoon was quite simply off-target.

Maybe what I saw was only the superficial stuff. After all, a foreigner, maybe, would be impressed with Malaysia but if you peeled the onion layers one by one, something would not feel right. The same with Burma I’d suppose. One has to live there, and more importantly, study the Burmese society to know its nuance. And as a foreigner, I may have had certain freedom that the locals may not have.

But maybe, all the modern looks are the liberalization dividend. Several years ago, I was told, things were very different. And there was definitely fewer tourists.

And Aung San Suu Kyi is popular there. No doubt about that. I bought a book from one of the sidewalks in Rangoon and the shopkeeper pointed his finger to a picture of Aung San Suu Kyi on the wall of his makeshift store. He said, “that is our leader.”