Tag: Khmer Empire

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Photography Travels

[2612] Lost in Preah Khan

Which is my favorite temple ruins among all the Angkor temples that I visited?

It is Preah Khan.

Some rights reserved. Creative Commons 3.0. Hafiz Noor Shams

Unlike others which are mountain temples, Pheah Khan is a collection of chambers and open space. And unlike others which at once impose their presence upon sight, Preah Khan is unassuming. Its entrance is an open courtyard with statues of devas and demons lining up on both sides. That leads to an door or archway which in turn leads you to the temple itself.

You will only realize its vastness once you are inside. Indeed, I was lost within the temple ruins after wandering with my camera. Its greatness is subtle and I like subtlety.

Pheah Khan is also interesting to me because it is the clearest example of Hindu-Buddhist conflict in the past. The Khmer Empire was primarily a Hindu polity but for some decades, its rulers decided to adopt Buddhism. The Hindu reaction came later when its rulers embraced Hinduism again. It was during this time that various Buddhist images were vandalized or redone as Hindu icons. In fact, Hindu kings converted Buddhist temples into Hindu temples.

Here is an example of Hindu reaction to Buddhism in the Khmer empire; images of Buddha were chiseled out:

Some rights reserved. Creative Commons 3.0. Hafiz Noor Shams

Here is another where a Buddha image was remodeled as a Hindu holy man:

Some rights reserved. Creative Commons 3.0. Hafiz Noor Shams

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Photography Travels

[2586] Angkor Wat from across the pond

Some rights reserved. Creative Commons 3.0. By Attribution. By Hafiz Noor Shams

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History & heritage Photography Travels

[2585] Bayon, Angkor Thom

Angkor Thom was the capital of the Khmer Empire, which Bayon is located at the very center of it. Without any exaggeration, this was the heart of the Khmer Empire. At its peak, it was estimated that around a million persons lived here.

Some rights reserved. Creative Commons 3.0. By Attribution. By Hafiz Noor Shams

It was really an experience. Close to 1,000 years later, there I was, standing at the heart of the Khmer empire, aware of its wider importance to Southeast Asian history, all the way to Srivijaya and the Sailendras. It was at that time that I felt glad that I loved history.

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History & heritage Photography Travels

[2583] Phnom Bakheng

This is a temple called Phnom Bakheng. It is located on top of a hill and so, it does require, possibly, a 15-minute hike from the bottom.

Some rights reserved. Creative Commons 3.0. By Attribution. By Hafiz Noor Shams

Due to its altitude, a visitor has a good view of his surrounding. He can see Angkor Wat as well as an ancient reservoir.

As you can see, they are wooden structures raised to support some part of the temples. It is falling apart.

This particular temple was built in the 9th century when the Khmer empire moved it capital from Roulos, some 20 or 30 miles away from Siem Reap, to here.

And like most temples, Phnom Bakheng was built to replicate Mount Meru. The replication is less impressive than Angkor Wat, but Phnom Bakheng is still amazing. The view from the top is something to die for and Angkor Wat cannot match that.

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History & heritage Photography Travels

[2578] 312 kilometers from Phnom Penh

If you want to visit the Angkor temple ruins, Siem Reap is your base. It is less than 20km away from the Angkor Wat and other magnificent temples to the north.

Some rights reserved. Creative Commons 3.0. By Attribution. By Hafiz Noor Shams

I spent nearly two weeks in Cambodia, spending the first week in Siem Reap in the north before visiting Phnom Penh via Battambang in the west. Yes, it was a big detour but it was worth it.

Siem Reap is a cute little town, close to the former capital of the Khmer empire, which is now in ruins. And yes, it is 312km away from Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia.

Siem Reap itself means “Siam defeated.” The Khmer capital was captured by Siam in the 15th century. That caused the Khmers to move its capital to Phnom Penh. In the 16th century, the Khmers liberated Siem Reap from Siam in a complete fashion. Hence the name.

Unfortunately for the Khmers, the Siamese were eventually victorious over the Khmer empire. Cambodia remained under Siamese rule until the French came in the 19th century.