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Economics History & heritage Photography Society Travels

[2576] Life and commerce in Siem Reap, Cambodia

I have always known about the atrocity of the Pol Pot and Khmer Rouge regime in Cambodia but before I traveled to Cambodia, that knowledge was superficial. I only began to learn more about the conflict when I found myself in Cambodia for two weeks recently. Being there almost made the knowledge into an emotional experience for me.

To fully understand the history, I think one has to read up Cambodian history since its late French colonial days. That is so because each event led to another and finally in 1975, the Khmer Rouge came to power. It was a reaction to yet another reaction but that fact does not justify what the Khmer Rouge did.

Apart from its political desire that also contributed to the massacre of the Cambodian people and those in the Khmer Rouge themselves later, its communist, understanding, forcefully changed the economy and the demography of Cambodia for the worse. It was disastrous, as it was disastrous with the Soviet Union and the People’s Republic of China.

The regime was not ashamed to centrally planned the economy, forcing all to work in the countryside as slaves and victims of communism. Without exaggeration in the case of Cambodia, communism kills. The cities were deserted so that the communists could realize a stupid ideal of “peasant economy”. Doctors, engineers and professionals were all forced to till the land in the countryside. The cities were left to those in power, and those whom were being tortured to satisfy the paranoia of the Khmer Rouge and ultimately, the circle of Pol Pot. The cities became ghost towns.

The Khmer Rouge regime fell in 1979. By that time I visited the country in 2012, what was a rich country has only begun to make its way in this world again.

Cambodia was a rich country. Its temple ruins are evident enough. Phnom Penh the capital has traces of its pre-Khmer Rouge glory.

Some of the Cambodians I talked to rued how Cambodia was richer than Vietnam before the Khmer Rouge period. Now, Vietman is ahead in so many ways. My traveling partner whom has been in Vietnam several times for an extended period, confirmed this. There are more buildings and vehicles in Vietnam than there are in Cambodia.

While that is so, traces of communism are being overwhelmed by its better nemesis.

In Siem Reap up north where most the temples of Angkor are, commerce, the voluntary exchange of goods and services by individuals, is everywhere.

Some rights reserved. Creative Commons 3.0. By Attribution. By Hafiz Noor Shams

Under communism of the Khmer Rouge, that was illegal. Under communism, there was no life.

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Photography Travels

[2575] Between Battambang and Phnom Penh

I am suffering from withdrawal syndrome. Cambodia is a land of mysterious ruins, wide paddy field with cities tinged with colonial life. It gained independence from France in 1953, but Cambodia is still stuck in time. The country is miserably romantic in so many ways. If you have been there before, traveling across the country from Siem Reap in the north to Phnom Penh in the south, you will understand the feeling quickly.

Some rights reserved. Creative Commons 3.0. By Attribution. By Hafiz Noor Shams

This is somewhere in between Battambang, the second largest city in Cambodia, and Phnom Penh, the capital that still lives in colonial times. Being close to Tonle Sap, the biggest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia, the landscape is dominated by paddy field.

The hot blue day makes the country beautiful, but the reality is harsher. Poor farmers had waited from rain for days; their livelihood depended on rain, and there was not enough water to go around during my stay there.

In some places, life is both beautiful and hard. That is Cambodia.

Categories
Poetry Travels

[2511] The land of Jayavarman

Man,
come with us please!
To the land of Jayavarman,
with all the temples to lease!

Categories
Photography Travels

[2338] Time sucked down the spiral

Oh boy. It is the end of the first quarter. When I opened up this photo of mine just now, I started to realize how quickly time flies. I took this shot nearly 2 months ago.

The speed at time passing me by scares me.

Some rights reserved. Creative Commons. By Attribution 3.0. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams

This is the stairwell of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. It took me some effort to negotiate the flight of stairs. Back then, I thought time went by too slowly.

Categories
Photography Travels

[2337] Bent

This is at top of Montmantre and in the background is Sacre Coeur.

I was told that there was a rivalry between the Eiffel Tower and Sacre Coeur. I am unsure if it is true but I am inclined to believe it.

As the story goes, both the Eiffel Tower and Sacre Coeur were completed around the same time. Sacre Coeur Basilica, a Roman Catholic church, sit on the highest point in Paris while the architect of the Eiffel Tower, Gustave Eiffel, aimed to make the Tower as the tallest structure of all Paris. There was a greater honor at stake: which pinnacle would be higher than the other?

Even though the Tower was, and still is, very tall, Sacre Coeur sit on Montmantre, making the Basilica’s pinnacle a contender.

What makes the rivalry interest was the fact that Sacre Coeur symbolizes religion and the old order. Eiffel wanted his work to symbolize science and technology. He said, “My tower will lit up the world, leading it out of the darkness of ignorance”, or something like that.

I am glad Eiffel won. The Eiffel Tower was in fact the tallest man-made structure in the whole world from 1889 to 1930.

Regardless of that, Sacre Coeur is still beautiful.

And I still miss Montmantre.