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Photography Travels

[2612] Lost in Preah Khan

Which is my favorite temple ruins among all the Angkor temples that I visited?

It is Preah Khan.

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Unlike others which are mountain temples, Pheah Khan is a collection of chambers and open space. And unlike others which at once impose their presence upon sight, Preah Khan is unassuming. Its entrance is an open courtyard with statues of devas and demons lining up on both sides. That leads to an door or archway which in turn leads you to the temple itself.

You will only realize its vastness once you are inside. Indeed, I was lost within the temple ruins after wandering with my camera. Its greatness is subtle and I like subtlety.

Pheah Khan is also interesting to me because it is the clearest example of Hindu-Buddhist conflict in the past. The Khmer Empire was primarily a Hindu polity but for some decades, its rulers decided to adopt Buddhism. The Hindu reaction came later when its rulers embraced Hinduism again. It was during this time that various Buddhist images were vandalized or redone as Hindu icons. In fact, Hindu kings converted Buddhist temples into Hindu temples.

Here is an example of Hindu reaction to Buddhism in the Khmer empire; images of Buddha were chiseled out:

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Here is another where a Buddha image was remodeled as a Hindu holy man:

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Photography Travels

[2604] A tree at Ta Prohm

Ta Prohm is one of the temple ruins in Siem Reap, Cambodia, which have been reclaimed by nature. Trees grow everywhere, within the compound of the ruins, and on the temple itself.

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Complete restoration of the ruins—meaning removal of the trees—is not possible without damaging the temple. The roots have grown intricately through the temple walls and killing the tree will mean damaging the ruins. From a pest, the trees have formed a symbiotic relationship with the ruins. The trees are now supporting the temple together, for now.

There is a philosophical debate here: preservation versus restoration: leave it be, or “restore” the ruins to its original glory. Here, the preservation camp sort of won and the trees remain.

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History & heritage Photography Travels

[2590] False door at Angkor Wat

Here is a typical pattern used on a typical richly ornate false door. Given how various temples were built sometimes a century apart, I found the commonness as mildly surprising. It suggests innovation was really slow.

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But it is pretty nonetheless.

This is at Angkor Wat.

I am unsure of its functions but my readings tell me that an actual door typically face east and the other false doors face the other three cardinal directions.

Categories
Photography Travels

[2586] Angkor Wat from across the pond

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Categories
History & heritage Photography Travels

[2585] Bayon, Angkor Thom

Angkor Thom was the capital of the Khmer Empire, which Bayon is located at the very center of it. Without any exaggeration, this was the heart of the Khmer Empire. At its peak, it was estimated that around a million persons lived here.

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It was really an experience. Close to 1,000 years later, there I was, standing at the heart of the Khmer empire, aware of its wider importance to Southeast Asian history, all the way to Srivijaya and the Sailendras. It was at that time that I felt glad that I loved history.