Categories
Personal Photography

[1342] Of a reward after a frightful climb

I was up on Bukit Tabur again last Sunday, committing to a more challenging climb. At one time, I could feel fear overwhelming rationality. My feet were clearly shaking uncontrollably, for fear of slipping down the rocky trail. At one time, I was hanging by a rock with a crevasse approximately 30 meters down. I couldn’t move. I couldn’t think and I was trying to get a grip on myself, figuratively and literally. I am just glad I didn’t go there alone, as I had planned to. Without partners, I think I could have been in a dangerous situation, especially when it was raining, along the jagged trail on top of the ridge.

I haven’t felt such fear for a very long time. But I made it. Shaken but I made it nonetheless.

Despite that experience, pictures like this…

By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved.

…made it worth my while. The adrenaline felt good after all been said and done. The Monday after however was a very painful day. My muscle was twitching so hard that I could not concentrate at work.

If you’re wondering, this is a picture of a colony of mosses on top of Bukit Tabur. Bukit Tabur is part of the Klang Gates Ridge, possibly the longest quartz ridge in the world, according to WWF Malaysia.

Categories
Personal Photography

[1304] Of climbing up on Solsbury Hill

Exactly a week ago, I found myself on top of one of the hills that make up the Klang Gates Ridge.

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams.

While I was up there, there were a few songs that kept playing in my mine. One of them was Peter Gabriel’s Solsbury Hill. Somehow, it was the right song for the right place at the right time.

Anyway, I think I have found a new hobby: solo climbing. So far in my life, there is no hobby that expresses my individualism as much as solo climbing. Somehow, solo climbing has strong connotation to obstacles to individualist effort to achieve greater height, literally. More importantly, I have found its philosophical attachment as extremely attractive. That, in turn, in one way or another, reminds me of Ayn Rand.

Categories
Activism Environment Photography

[1279] Of the tapir to hike the Klang Gate

It is two hours to Monday and I am already suffering from Monday blue. I browsed through my album and this tapir lightened things up a bit for me.

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams

The Path Finders of the Malaysian Nature Society is organizing a day hike to Bukit Tabur at the Klang Gate some time in the coming September. I am responsible to organize the trip and so, currently, I am looking at September 8, the last Saturday before the Ramadan begins.

At the same time, I am hoping for a haze-free day. Kuala Lumpur last Friday was shrouded with haze and that worries me.

In the meantime, I need to do some recon (interestingly, some people call it recce) work in the area and am planning to do it on July 21 and that is a Saturday. Anybody want to join me for a day hike in July?

Categories
Photography Travels

[1238] Of breathing Endau Rompin: Part VI

So, where were we?

Oh yes. We were back in Kampung Peta after that boat ride and hiking trip to Upeh Guling and Tasik Biru.

I do not remember anything special that night. All I remember is, there was dinner, a story telling session and a lot of tired people. The whole camp went to sleep relatively quickly. It was not even 2300 if I am not mistaken.

During dinner, a person announced that she was conducting a scientific quest of finding an endangered palm tree species; female palm in particular. She needed to find out how large an area would spores travel. This information is useful for conservation effort as well as the enrichment of human knowledge.

The next morning began, again, quickly. I would have loved another hour of sleep but we needed to start early. I skipped my morning bath as it was too cold to have one. That opinion is not unique to me, that much I could guarantee.

Today, our goal was the peak of Janing Barat.

While all members were informed of the expedition itinerary, I do not think many cared about it until now. One the first day itself, a lot of people, including me, were clueless about the details of the trip, despite the fact that the information was freely available previously. So, when some heard that there would be hill climbing today, a few chickened out, choosing to stay idle by the river and read some book, or whatever they could think of. Not a bad idea really. I myself brought a book with me, thinking that I could finally have some time to make some good progress with my reading list. Unfortunately, time for reading is something of an elusive luxury.

We left those that wished to stay behind and headed to Kampung Peta for a boat ride to Kuala Jasin.

Do you remember the flower that Gary said could switch color from red to white? Well, the flower stayed white. When we brought that to Gary’s attention, Gary insisted that it did not bloom that day. I took it that Gary was joking but after viewing somebody else’s photos on the expedition back in Kuala Lumpur, what Gary said was true.

So, we got on the boat.

Yesterday was a bright day with blue sky. Today, the sky was slightly cloudy and dull while the hills and mountains were covered with mist. It was hard to make out the peaks as the mist hid it among the cloud.

Copyrights by Katrin Schmidt. All rights reserved. Used with permission.

Where does the earth end and the sky begin? Photo by Katrin Schmidt.

The weather did affect me. The cloudy day made me a little melancholy and drifted away, daydreaming, longing for something I did not know what, despite being slightly at peace with myself. I played with the water, loving every moment of solitude that I had. The individualist in me wished the moment to last forever; the moment of being alone.

By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved.

The dude is contemplating on life. I lost that cap. But Go Blue!

That solitude was interrupted when the boat hit ashore. It was time to get out and hike.

Kuala Jasin did not lose the charm it had the first time we was here 24 hours earlier. The sound of water sculpting the rocks was pleasant. The birds would sing in chorus while the wind and insects providing percussions. Neither Bach nor Mozart nor Vivaldi but harmonious nevertheless.

By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved.

Another shot of Kuala Jasin.

We gathered at the t-junction that I mentioned earlier. Yesterday, we took the route towards Kuala Marong. Today, it was Janing Barat. I was in the last group that started the ascend to Janing Barat.

Now, Janing Barat is referred to in Malay as gunung; meaning mountain. Just like Tasik Biru, it is a misnomer as Janing Barat stands at 427 meter up, which is about 1,400 feet. That however does not make the ascend any easier for a person that fails to exercise even once a week.

The first hundred steps or so were painfully challenging. I could feel my leg muscles being overwhelmed with lactic acid. The worst part was that I could not take a rest without hurting my ego. Luckily for me however, circumstance was in my favor. In our group, the camp’s only nurse, a female by the name of Dayang had problem with stamina. She stopped quite often to catch her breath and for some water. I was only happy to stop whenever she stopped, cleaning my system of lactic acid.

The trail to the peak is interesting with the trail lying on a narrow plateau. On either sides of the path, one could see how one is walking on the highest point of a cross section of the hill. The slope of the sides was probably stayed typically in between 60 and 70 degree. I definitely would not want to fall sideway.

Copyrights by Katrin Schmidt. All rights reserved. Used with permission.

Observe the slope. This looks downward. Photo by Katrin Schmidt.

As I acclimatized myself, I built some stamina. Slowly, I noticed that I needed less rest though, for some reason, I yawned a lot.

It turned out, there were other people with even lower stamina. Our group, being the last to start walking up, started to overtake a number of fellow hikers. At some point of time, I and the rest of my group overtook Dayang, fastening our pace to the top.

Copyrights by Gary Phong. All rights reserved. Used with permission.

Gary gets artistic. Photo by Gary Phong.

If one carefully observed his surrounding, concentrating not on his breathing, he would notice the interesting floras. At the bottom of the hill, typical tall and hard trunk trees like meranti are prevalent while the jungle floor is filled with undergrowth. Halfway up, palm trees dominate. Farther up, the palm trees still dominate though the floor is something like those in North America — clear and covered only with dead leaves.

By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved.

Typical view of a not so typical environment. This is somewhere up.

We took some photographs. Some photographers required more time than others and we overtook more people. Soon, the group that started last were leading most of the expedition. Indeed, our group probably was the second one to reach the midpoint and the peak.

The midpoint is a relatively wide open space covered with a combination of tall hard truck trees and palms with a bench by the side before the ground falls to an abyss below. A perfect place to for a short stop. Time for a drink. Time for a sip. Probably for a nap too.

Copyrights by Katrin Schmidt. All rights reserved. Used with permission.

The bench at midway up. That is Azmi, waiting for slow folks like us. Also notice how the palm trees dominate the scenery. Photo by Katrin Schmidt.

In time like this, water is gold. The fact hit me as I realized that I did not fill my bottle with water!

Oh crap. With no choice, wishing not to beg for water from others, I reluctantly economized my consumption. It was déjà vu all over again. That however did not prevent me to enjoy nature.

Roughly ten minutes later, people started to pour in, making the place too crowded. Rested, it was only fair for us to give up space for the others. After a short exchange, we moved on, onward and upward.

The trail so far was between 0 and 30 degree. After the midpoint, the trail took a radical turn. At one place, we had to climb up with the gradient being something in the 70s or the 80s. It was practically rock climbing. For my personally, that part was the most exciting part of the climb.

For about another hour or less, we reached the top. It was a palm trees-covered plateau, nearly 500 meter up. I am not sure how to explain the plateau but I had a feeling of being in a lost world. It was as if I was expecting dinosaurs to roam the plateau. My imagination was running wild.

The atmosphere was very different with no undergrowth and only large wild palm growing liberally everywhere. The wide palm leaves tamed the sunlight and that probably explains the lack of undergrowth.

Copyrights by Katrin Schmidt. All rights reserved. Used with permission.

Making mountain out of a, er, hill? Photo by Katrin Schmidt.

Not too far up, W** S**** and gang as well as Katrin and Christian and our Orang Asli guide, Azmi were enjoying the view. From here, we could see Upeh Guling in the horizon amid the uneven green background with cloud-filled sky overhead.

By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved.

View on top of Janing Barat. Near the center is Upeh Guling.

With Azmi’s aid, we explored the plateau and found varieties of pitcher plant. There were other plants of course but pitcher plants were the stars of the day.
There were cute pitcher as large as my pinky and there were bigger ones which could fit a few of my fingers at one time. I did insert my pinky into one of that pitcher plant just to see if it would eat me. Carefully, of course since I did not want to hurt it. At the end of that exercise, both of us survived. I especially was disappointed to see my finger was still intact.

By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved.

Nope. It did not try to eat me.

Also, we were hoping to see tiger’s prints but we did not find out.

Then, it was lunch, Upeh Guling far out there with the wind softly blowing much to my delight.

Categories
Photography Travels

[1215] Of breathing in Endau Rompin: Part V

A short lunch and cat nap refreshed my muscle. I failed to train for the hiking trip though as the whole, it was not as demanding as I had thought it would be. Still, my poor legs were exhausted and the short stop was most welcomed. It was just too bad we could not jump into the pools at Upeh Guling.

With the first goal of the day achieved, we were on our way to the almost fabled Tasik Biru. The entire story about Tasik Biru got me to imagine Lake Lukens, the most beautiful lake I have ever seen.

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams.

Lake Lukens. A time long ago when my photography skill tremendously sucked.

Lake Lukens sits a few miles away from the Tioga Pass in the Yosemite National Park. I vividly remember the approach to the water body late in the morning during one summer day. Large trees with little undergrowth characteristically of Californian forest slowly give way to smaller trees and plants, before reddish, field of violet, pinkish flowers that stretch from all the way to an unbelievably blue lake. The sun was high up, dragonflies were flying joyfully, the sky was blue and the water reflected the open sky. That was what I had in mind. The blue dragonflies I spotted at Upeh Guling further brought my imagination higher away, turning Lake Lukens into my benchmark of beauty.

While I could dream of being in the Sierra Nevada, I cannot dream my way to Tasik Biru. I had to physical walk to realize the magnificence of Tasik Biru that I had in my mind. And so, we retraced our steps all the way to Kuala Marong, going downhill.

All rights reserved. By Lim Wee Siong. Used with permission.

Recrossing Marong River (?). Notice the stacked rock? No. It is not a sign of somebody having too much time. If you ever go hiking in the wilderness anywhere in the world, take careful note of those rocks because it might make your life a lot easier. You do not want to get lost in the wilderness with all those elephants, tigers and, gulp, leeches! (Photo by L** W** S****)

Now, I wrote earlier that conservation-wise, Kuala Marong is a special place. The reason is that the place is a protected breeding spot for several threatened fresh water fish species. There is a board that informs visitors of the conservation program, which is supported by none other than the Malaysian Nature Society along with one or two other partners of with I failed to jot down in my notebook.

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams.

Kuala Marong is where an MNS-supported conservation effort takes place.

Kuala Marong looks like a success story and it is easy to get such positive impression. I stood on a platform, standing no more than 10 feet above the crystal clear water, and saw school of fishes swimming calmly in the river. I do not remember the scientific name of the species but those in the conservation areas is kelah as it is called in Malay. I am bad with fishes but kelah might translate to carp or mahseer.

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams.

Threatened species in crystal clear river.

Anyway, after a short lesson in fish conservation, we went ahead to Tasik Biru.

There were several interesting faunae along the way. One of us sounded like a biologist or something close, able to name many plants at ease. I was quiet impressed by him and decided to stay close, learning as I hiked along.

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams.

A coral-like plant that I had never seen before.

One of the more amusing observations is an anti-gravity bamboo! Really! This one bamboo was totally detached from the ground. Of course, its branches above might give it the support to it, thus providing the seemingly anti-gravity effect. As for the bamboo itself, it was dead of course.

It took some time to get to Tasik Biru and I played heigh-ho in my head over and over again. And then, there it was, Tasik Biru.

All rights reserved. By Katrin Shmidt. Used with permission.

Tasik Biru (Blue Lake) turns out to be green river. If I were alone, this would not be the place I would want to be at. One would never know what lurks in the greenish depth. (Photo by Katrin Shmidt)

If Tasik Biru were a box for sale on a shelf, there would be a small note saying that it was neither blue nor a lake. It is a river, possibly Marong, deep enough to dive from a cliff into, and green, due to how the tree top provides shade and how the water reflects the color of the trees. Many of us agreed that the name Tasik Biru is a misnomer. Regardless, I enjoyed it through and through, though the place has an eerie atmosphere.

All rights reserved. By Lim Wee Siong. Used with permission.

The fishes would say, OMG, look out n00b5! (Photo by L** W** S****)

From a cliff, one by one either jump into the river or slowly walk into it for a noon bath. I was not ready to miss out any chance for a dip in the cool water, especially during a hot day. So, I joined those that were already savoring the water.

While in the water, I somewhat panic when I felt something bit me in the back a couple of times. I was ready to rush for solid ground when I realized that there were fishes in the river. Schools of them. Whenever the water is shallow, the riverbed by the bank and the fishes could be seen; it was so clear, which made the experience all the better.

Despite the occasional biting, it tickled more than it hurt. More importantly, the species does not have piranha teeth. So, I carried on with my business, having myself soaked in water, trying to overwhelm my sense of touch, forgetting for awhile all the worries in the world. All that I cared was that, I was there. Tool’s Parabol could be heard sung in my head. We barely remember what came before this precious moment… This body makes me feel eternal, all this pain is an illusion…

All rights reserved.  Fair use. Wikipedia

The cold was not an illusion. Sooner or later, the coldness started to bite me to the bones. As a person with little body fat, I am unable to keep myself warm for too long when the temperature gets low. So, I got out of water and did what reptiles do, sunbathing. I did not bring a towel with me and that made sunbathing a perfect activity. With the cold wetness, the fierce Sun became a gentleman, a welcoming guest as it was to me during one of those long harsh winters in the past.

It was too hot soon after. I started to feel the Sun burning my skin. That reminded me on how painful burned skin could be and noticing that I was already dry, I prepared myself for our trip back to the base camp.

From Tasik Biru, we found ourselves back to Kuala Marong. Just like Kuala Jasin, the effect of the last big flood was noticeable. There was a suspension bridge that crossed the river and all that is left of it was several supporting pillars.

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams.

Marong bridge has fallen down, fallen down, fallen down…

Actually, if the bridge were still up, we probably could have gone to Upeh Guling without getting relatively wet.

From Kuala Marong to Kuala Jasin, a boat ride back to Kampung Peta and finally, to Limpako. And yes, by the road, on the hill, beside the shack, the puppies were still there.

At Kampung Peta, right beside the jetty was a red rose-like flower. According to Gary, in the morning, it was white but I and another person which I shamefully cannot recall the name did not trust him. Gary, probably feeling a little bit indignant in a friendly manner, challenged us to check the flower tomorrow, when it bloomed. So, tomorrow it was…

That means, to be continued.

Anyway, forward a couple of days, back in Kuala Lumpur, I, being a person whom have trouble cutting myself from the past, got on Google Earth to relive the journey. And for those that care, this is where Kampung Peta is in Endau Rompin. We start with Southeast Asia:

All rights reserved by Google, et al. Fair use.

The Malay Peninsula:

All rights reserved by Google, et al. Fair use.

Johor:

All rights reserved by Google, et al. Fair use.

Northeast of Johor:

All rights reserved by Google, et al. Fair use.

Southern Endau Rompin National Park:

All rights reserved by Google, et al. Fair use.

Kampung Peta and its surrounding:

All rights reserved by Google, et al. Fair use.

I do think that Google Earth got the location of Kampung Peta slightly wrong. It is supposed to be on the other side of the river. Nevertheless, nothing could stop me from saying Google rocks.

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

p/s — thanks to L** W** S**** (the diving into the river photo) and Katrin Shmidt (the eerie Tasik Biru pic) for the permission to use their pictures.