Categories
History & heritage

[1219] Of why Malacca but not Srivijaya?

A majority of Malays are content to look only as far as the Sultanate of Malacca in the 15th and the 16th century, apparently accepting the era as the golden age of ancient, classical or medieval Malay civilization. Thanks to the education I received through the Malaysian system, I had the same perception too and I do think even Malaysians as a society in one way or another accept Malacca was the greatest civilization in ancient, classical or medieval Malaysian history. My love for history has allowed me to delve far beyond Malaysian textbooks. While Malacca was a great empire, a greater civilization was Srivijaya, an empire that was almost forgotten. I truly believe that Srivijaya was that brilliant light that stayed bright from nearly a millennium. Malacca was a just spark, though brilliant as it may be.

The Malaysian education system fails to give Srivijaya the respect it deserves. So many Malaysian textbook pages concentrate on Malacca and successive minor Malay states but ignored that one large Malay empire that spanned from the Isthmus of Kra all the way down to Central Java and, at one point in time, even the banks of the Mekong. Admittedly, Srivijayan border was porous unlike modern states but its sphere of influence was far wider than that of Malacca or even of Malaysia.

Perhaps part of the reason why the Malays stress so much on Malacca is the fact that so little information is known about Malay history earlier than the 14th century. Relatively modern Malays have been so ingrained with the notion that their history starts with Malacca. That misconception pushes Srivijaya into that one book in a section of a library that nobody goes to.

Srivijaya, despite its status, was only discovered by historians in the early 20th century. The reason why it was so easy to overlook Srivijaya’s existence is the material used for Srivijayan architecture; many of Srivijayan structures were made out of wood. In harsh tropical climate, wood would not last for too long, definitely not for one thousand years. Malacca itself did not leave too much behind to be marveled at by tourists and so, one could not hope too much for Srivijaya. The rain and the sun conspired to erase a chapter of a history book, hushing Srivijaya from history to myth to total obscurity.

That does not mean Srivijaya failed to leave its mark in history. The Sailendra, under the auspice of the Srivijayan Emperor Samaratunga, constructed the Borobudur which still stands today in the middle of Java. But even that monument was only rediscovered in the 19th century by Stamford Raffles. As for the Sailendra, the East Javanese pushed them out of central Java, causing the Srivijayan ally to migrate to the west and built a new hope under the protection of Srivijaya. The royal court of Sailendra was finally eliminated by Srivijayan Emperor Culamanivarmadeva after the Sailendra betrayed the emperor. That act led to the loss to Srivijayan capital, Palembang, to the East Javanese in the early 11th century. Palembang was reconquered by Culamanivarmadeva but by that time, Srivijaya had gone over its hill. It was dusk time.

Notice the names? Yes. The Malays were Hindus then. And Buddhists, and animists, despite whatever the religious conservatives might assert, despite how our history is being rewritten by those that have no respect for truth.

The Sultanate of Malacca itself was founded by an heir to the Srivijayan throne. The struggle between the Malays and the Javanese continued well into the 14th century and sometimes by the late 1300s, Parameswara, a Malay Srivijaya prince, fled Sumatra when Majapahit finally crushed the last remnant of a Malay empire that started humbly by the Musi River.

In a way, Malacca was the successor of the glorious Srivijaya. If Malacca could be seen as a sultanate that later led to Malaya and Malaysia, then Srivijaya could be seen as such as well.

While I was in Bangkok, I visited some of the museums there. It is truly sad to find out that the Thais are more appreciative of the Malay empire than the Malays and Malaysians in Malaysia themselves. Perhaps, that could be explained by the presence of Srivijayan temples, biaras, in Thailand, reminding the Thais of an empire long ago. In Malaysia, almost nothing.

Almost nothing but the Bujang Valley which was under the control of Old Kedah, a state within the realm of Srivijaya. Is it not odd that Bujang Valley, itself being far richer in historical terms, has been outshone by relatively young ruins (if it could be called as such) of Malacca?

Something must explain this bias that sides with Malacca. Could it be religion?

Categories
Activism Environment Photography Travels

[1128] Of hurrah for Raptor Watch

Sun burn is really a tough thing to live with. Going through the day with it is discomforting to say the least. I have only myself to blame however. I should have applied sun screen on myself before standing under the almost merciless sun, increasing the chance of me getting skin cancer. But in term of cost and benefit, the fun I had is enough to not make me regret what I had done over the weekend; I spent the it with people from the Malaysian Nature Society. It was Raptor Watch 2007!

Take a look at the cool buntings!

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams

A few people and I carpooled all the way from Kuala Lumpur to Tanjung Tuan, Malacca, the place where Raptor Watch has been held since 2000. I hitched a ride with the same person that I met back in the “adventurous” trip to Pasir Kumpal last year; an old English lady that has been a Malaysian longer than I have been alive!

First of, Tanjung Tuan has an interesting history. It is the site of the oldest lighthouse in Malaysia and it is still working after nearly 150 years in existence. According to a plaque right by a flight of stairs to the lighthouse, the spot of the current lighthouse was the spot of an even older lighthouse which was destroyed sometimes before 1860, built back in 16th century by the Portuguese. The place, Cape Rachado as it was called when the Portuguese when they first reached the cape was the site of a great naval battle – the Battle of Cape Rachado – between the Portuguese and the Dutch. The Dutch lost that particular battle, along with a great ship known as Nassau but the they ultimately won the war. Throughout the century, allying themselves with Johor and Aceh, the Portuguese was ultimately booted out of Malacca in 1641.

After years, this is how the lighthouse look now:

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams.

Down below from the lighthouse, a cliff!

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams.

It is so beautiful there. You have to be there yourself to appreciate. According to the locals, on a clear day, Sumatra could be see far in the horizon, across one of the busiest waterways in the world.

Another thing of interest is the political geography of Tanjung Tuan. Despite being so close to Port Dickson with is already far inside the state of Negeri Sembilan, the small cape is part of Malacca state. I am unsure why is that but I really love to know about it. But enough of the lighthouse. The main reason I came down to Tanjung Tuan is Raptor Watch.

To be frank, the first day disappointed me tremendously. Everybody that had been to the previous Raptor Watch told me that the sky would be full of them. When they said full at first, I had imagine something like the wildabeets at the Serengenti. Obviously, the word full was spoken as a figure of speech; it is not the literal meaning of full. Still, the number that flew above my head was far below what I had expected. Even those who I would call veterans were disappointed. They told me that it was due to the cloudy weather.

You see, the raptors are huge birds. How big?

This one raptor is in the care of Zoo Malacca:

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams.

Handsome, is he not? Or she? Whatever it may be, I dare not provoke it.

And this is a free raptor in flight on the first day; my camera does no justice to the majestic raptor:

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams.

I need to get one of these those B.F.C. soon if I want to get better photos of these great birds:

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams.

Based on what the other volunteers told me, the distance between the birds length and its beak could range from anywhere around half a meter to probably a meter. Their wingspan could easily double that length, or so I was told. Because of its size, the birds of prey, the raptors, do not have the energy to flap its wings to gain distance. So, they depend on heat to take them higher in the sky and from a sufficiently high point, glide glide away. They would just circle a warm area to get to a higher point. The raptors will do this as many times as they need to get to their destinations.

Thanks, or no thanks to the cloud, there was little heat for the raptors to utilize. Hence, the low counts of raptors for Saturday. That however made witnessing the raptors soaring all the more precious. Nevertheless, according to the counters stationed at the lighthouse, more than 1,000 raptors were spotted.

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams

Talking about the destination, as far as the raptors that were spotted at Tanjung Tuan are concerned, their destination is Siberia. From Sumatra, they crossed over the Straits of Malacca into Tanjung Tuan and then all the way north to Russia. But why Tanjung Tuan? What makes the Malacca exclave so special?

Well, Tanjung Tuan is the shortest distance between the Malay Peninsula and Sumatra.

Beside watching the birds, it was fun soliciting visitors to join the MNS. It was tough with many giving perhaps empty promises to join just to lose us while others simply dismissed the volunteers. I could accept no but empty promise is something I do not take quite well. It was great nonetheless. Our booth received lots of visitors and this was before we were ready for business:

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams

A person, Angie, the one on the left side of the table, was equipped with a binocular and all, a sign of a birder, set a target of 20 new members for that day and we hit 21! Last year, for both Saturday and Sunday, about 20 people joined MNS. So, you could imagine how ecstatic we were when we more than match last year performance. The next day, she set 30 as our target and we hit 31 by the end of the day!

Out of 52, I got only four new members. But hey, pretty good for a newbie.

One thing I noticed though is that a significant portion of new members are foreigners. It is so good to see people are supporting conservation efforts regardless of nationalities or geography. And then, there are Singaporeans. Nature Society of Singapore are probably annoyed at us for stealing their members!

But really, it is sad to know that the Nature Society in Singapore broke away from its mother, the Malayan Nature Society, later the Malaysian Nature Society. While Malaysia and Singapore as countries parted in 1965, I do not believe the Nature Society in Singapore should have gone through the path of separation. After all, nature is one and it knows no man made divisions.

And yeah, the Minister of the Environment visited the membership booth! Our booth! My booth! And his wife, the beautiful Normala Shamsuddin wore a hat with an MNS badge!

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams.

I also managed to talk to Rejal Arbee, a father of a friend while I was at the Malay College who were with the minister’s envoy.

The next day was marvelous. The sun was shining mightily bright and the sky was as blue as it could be; this was how blue the sky was:

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams

More importantly, it was hot right from the morning. Birders assert the positive correlation between high temperature and raptors count; I saw how that assertion was proven with my own eyes. After an hour after noon, the raptors conquered the sky, having arrived from Sumatra. I was amazed at the sight, seeing flock of raptors soaring, circling above us, passing us by, northward. In my head, I was imagining, these raptors were the Allies bombers during the Second World War, seemingly flying slowing in numbers and groups.

I wish I did not have to go home. I wish the whole event would not have ended. I think, I could just stand under the sun, standing, looking upward towards the sky, imagining me flying along with the raptors.

Heh. Me, flying…

That was what I felt when I discovered that I actually spent time with Miss Malaysia 2006! When I actually knew that she is last year’s Miss Malaysia, I said to a friend, “no wonder she is so beautiful!”

At the end of the day:

Copyrighted. Via Malaysian Nature Society. Fair use.

Watch out! Raptors in the sky!

Copyrighted. Via Malaysian Nature Society. Fair use.

Next stop: Endau-Rompin.

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

p/s — apparently, Tanjung Tuan is also the last remaining coastal rainforest in Peninsular Malaysia. If that is true, that makes the conservation of the area even more important.

Categories
Photography Sports

[1127] Of a bulb at Tanjung Tuan

I just came back from a refreshing weekend at Tanjung Tuan with the Malaysian Nature Society. Even better, after two days without the information superhighway, when I found out that among the top five in the Eredivisie, only Ajax gained ground relative to the rest. Next stop is PSV Eindhoven.

I am too tired to do anything else and I long for my bed. Still, somehow, I could not shut my eyes until I blogged on something from the Raptor Watch. So:

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams

I have two versions and I am unsure which is better. And so…:

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams

Someone should encourage the hotel — which had been kind enough to sponsor the MNS-organized event — to switch to florescent bulbs and then say good night.

Boy. I should have taken the Monday off. My legs are killing me. And the sun burn too.

Categories
History & heritage

[1105] Of a brand new RM12.8 million Fort A’Famosa

RM12.8 million could buy more than 6 million plates of nasi lemak for a nationwide gathering. Or 1,280 World of Warcraft-friendly computers. Or support the Malay College for roughly two years at its current state. Or support more or less 29 full time students at the University of Michigan for four years. Or, it could be used to reconstruct the fort that was built by the Portuguese in the 16th century, strengthened by the Dutch in the 17th and the 18t century and dismantled by the British in the 19th century, the Fort A Famosa. Come the 21st century, here comes the Malaysian to raise the dead fort!

Yes. The federal government of Malaysia is planning to reconstruct the old fort and it is allocating resources so huge that it could buy 6 million Malaysians with free nasi lemak:

MALACCA: The federal government has approved a RM12.8 million allocation for the reconstruction of Fortaleza D’Malacca or the mighty A’Famosa fort built during the Portuguese or Dutch colonial era in Bandar Hilir here.

Culture, Arts and Heritage Minister Datuk Seri Dr Rais Yatim said said the first phase of the rebuilding work was expected to begin in April or May. [The Star, Feb 18 2007]

It is an odd thing to see the federal government is more interested in rebuilding what has been lost and not save those that have yet to be lost. With that RM12.8 million, it might be possible to entice the owner of the land the Bok House once sat upon to sell it to the public for conservation purposes.

Would the dear minister think the reconstruction of the old fort would qualify Malacca entry into the UNESCO World Heritage list?

Well, whatever the answer would be, if the federal government goes through with the plan, I hope the reconstruction would not damage existing historical buildings.