Categories
Photography Travels

[860] Of the second half of the second day in Bangkok, Thailand

If you’re interested, read part one and two.

After Wat Pho, we made way to the Bangkok National Museum while the day was still relatively bright and almost cheery. We passed along several landmarks . One of them was the palace:

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

I wonder if those yellow stuff are actually gold. I’d presume they are. This looks inside the inner wall of the palace:

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

Somewhere nearby, there’s a large open space, much like the Mall in Washington D.C. There’s a university there too and there were many monks, as you can see:

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

After all these and a few other photos, we reached the museum.

The museum has a large compound and the galleries are scattered all over the place. Despite that fact, we had mere two hours and so, we managed to roam a gallery. There were 20 galleries there and one of the galleries that I wish I had visited is the Srivijayan gallery.

I’ve always feel that it’s wrong for Malaysians to think the Sultanate of Malacca was the most prominent civilization in our history. The truth is, Srivijaya was far larger and lasted much longer than Malacca. I strongly feel Malaysian history book should give Srivijaya more credit instead of over glorifying Malacca. Perhaps, the reason why Srivijaya sat in the shadow of Malacca these days is because Srivijaya was a Hindu kingdom while Malacca was Muslim. I’d imagine many conservatives in Malaysia hated that idea. I believe it’s just history and it doesn’t matter what the religion of any kingdom. Regardless of the religions of Srivijaya, the empire deserves more befitting treatment than it currently receives. It’s part of our history and it’s important we all know it, regardless what these conservatives think. If the country falls to them, they would rewrite our history, destroy our culture like they’re doing in Kelantan and turn us all into Arabs.

There are no photo from the museum. Unlike museums in the United States and Malaysia, photography is forbidden in this particular museum complex.

While I was visiting the Metropolitan Museum in New York, I frequently found myself being left behind by my friends; museums usually fascinate me. That didn’t happen in the Thai museum because I am kind of familiar with most of the subjects that were on display. Nevertheless, it was still taxing. I felt like I was going to lose my legs after we were done with the museum.

When we got out of the museum, which was around 17:30, the bright sunny day had into a gloomy one. It even rained for awhile though it wasn’t too bad. What was bad was the fact we didn’t know where to go and that we were very hungry. My dietary restriction didn’t make the situation any easier. The saddest part was, we opted for McDonald’s. I call it sad because I don’t really like fast food. Well, I like fast food but I have issues with large fast food chains.

Anyway, we asked around for the nearest McDonald’s and three girls directed us to Khao San. We didn’t know the name of the place actually but when we got there, it was like Thai version of Malaysian Petaling Street or Chow Kit Street.

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

I later found out off the net that Khao San is a backpackers’ haven. The next I visit Bangkok, I know where I’d want to stay. I’ll bring my backpack too just to blend in. While at Khao San, we didn’t get McDonald’s but instead, we got falafel. That was the first time I tasted falafel since I returned to Malaysia from the United States.

And yeah, we did meet Ronald McDonald despite not buying anything from him.

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

While Khao San looks dirty, it isn’t too bad. Moreover, there are some cool
restaurants with great atmosphere:

Another one:

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

Some are hidden inside an alley:

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

Another one:

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

The distance between the museum and Khao San isn’t too demanding to traverse. What made it challenging was crossing the road. As mentioned earlier, crossing the street in Bangkok isn’t the best of all hobbies. We had to cross something like a busy six or eight-lane street. If jaywalking is an offense in Bangkok, we should be punished with life sentence with no possibility of parole. We came out alive. I suppose living in Kuala Lumpur does teach you one or two things about crossing a seemingly “un-crossable” street.

Once done with Khao San, we headed for the Democracy Monument. I however have a few deadlines tomorrow. Therefore, I’ll stop here for now.

Categories
Liberty Photography

[846] Of fascists and flags

Malaysian citizens are paying taxes to fund a lot of funky stuff. We already have moral police and moral court. Now, we are going to have flag police!

In the New Straits Times today:

Culture, Arts and Heritage Minister Datuk Seri Dr Rais Yatim said yesterday many rich and famous citizens had a lackadaisical attitude towards flying the Jalur Gemilang on special occasions like National Day.

“We’re not saying they are unpatriotic, rather they take things for granted. It would be embarrassing if an officer of the law knocked on their door and asked them why they were not flying the flag…”

Maybe we should be flying Nazi flags instead.

Patriotism can’t be forced upon. Dr Rais Yatim should realize that.

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

p/s – I’ve just realized that my photo is currently on the front page of Malay Wikipedia. It’s the featured photo for July 2006. I’m honored especially given the fact that that photo of mine is the first photo to be picked to be on Malay Wikipedia’s new Featured Pictures section.

Getting a photo into English Wikipedia’s Featured Pictures however is much harder than Malay Wikipedia. Unlike the latter, the former Wikipedia is more established and there are a lot more photographers on it – amateurs and professionals. Thus, the requirement is far stricter. I myself nominated two of my photos (of which I thought were exceptional) for consideration but both efforts failed. But I’ll try again and again and again…

Categories
ASEAN Economics Photography

[843] Of why Thailand is a major regional producer of rice

The delta of Chao Phraya, from the air :

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

The sea is of course the Gulf of Thailand.

This is from another angle with the attributes of the picture tweaked to make the paddy field plots more visible:

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

I wonder how the Mekong looks like…

Categories
ASEAN Photography Politics & government Travels

[841] Of the second day in Bangkok, Thailand

Read part three.

Where were we?

Central Pier by the Chao Phraya in Bangkok, remember ?

I was particularly excited to experience Chao Phraya. One reason I kept suggesting to my friend that we should go down to the river is because I’ve been familiar with the name Chao Phraya since childhood. You see, when I was in my early teenage, I had always been fascinated by history and geography. Every time I read history or geography, a feeling of “I-want-to-be-there” overwhelmed me; even now as an adult. That has enabled me, even as an elementary student, to name places my then peers and even adults had never even heard before. So, when I had the chance to personally be at the historic and important Chao Phraya, I grabbed it, just like how I had the chance to see the mighty Mississippi River some years ago. Now that I’ve grown up, you could say that traveling is my way of realizing my childhood dream. In fact, it’s also one of the reasons why I spend excessive amount of time at Wikipedia but I’m not here at this moment to talk about Wikipedia, am I?

Anyway, at the river, we planned our next step – a boat ride to Tha Tien we waited for 15 minutes for the boat to depart from the pier. I was quietly ecstatic but it didn’t last long before I – we – realized that we got on the wrong boat. Instead of moving upstream, we were crossing the river. Curses!

Once the boat got on the other side, everybody got off except the two of us and an European (I think). The three of us exchanged glances and shrugged our shoulders. We later approached the conductor, trying to confirm what we had already known. But the conductor couldn’t converse in English, so it was useless though somehow, he (or she, I’m not quite sure of the conductor’s gender…) could rely to us that we need to pay 60 baht (approximately MYR 0.60; roughly USD 0.17) for the to and fro service, even if it was an accident.

I don’t mind that 60 baht but what made this experience regretful was the time wasted. Already we wasted 15 minutes getting on the wrong boat and now, we had to wait for another 15 minutes to get on the right side of the river. This was on top the fact that we made the mistake of starting our little adventure late in the morning. So, by the time we got to where we started, more than 30 minutes were wasted.

Now, we were up for a re-try and this time, we asked around. Accepting the fact that typical Thais on the street speak blasphemous English, we looked for white tourists to help us out. How messed up was that?

We, coming from a fellow ASEAN country, had to ask other tourists for direction! Embarrassing!

Embarrassing indeed but it was practical. Especially practical when we approached two girls. One of them smiled when I made a remark “thank god somebody speaks England”. From their accent, they were probably from the US. So, taking direction from them was easy. This particular part of the journey was made easier because they were going to Tha Tien – our destination. So we happily tagged along.

On the boat ride, we started to tweak our so-called plan and decided from Tha Tien, we would take the boat back to Central Pier once we done with Tha Tien and its surrounding and then two trains all the way to Ratchadapisek to end the day. Things were not as simple as our simplistic plan as we would find out later in the day.

The river itself is large and lively. Though we are living in the 21st century, apparently, the river plays its role as a mode of transportation. It isn’t just tourists that are utilizing the boats but also by the locals. It seems that the river itself is an expressway.

Bangkok’s skyline is observable from the middle of the river. It’s flat but that doesn’t make it any less impressive. By the river, hotel buildings are arranged in such a way that reminds me of Miami, without the turquoise sea of course.

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

As we moving farther up north, the city somehow moved back into the past. Modern buildings vanished and replaced by more traditional structures influenced by Thai culture. One of the more important structures are Wat Arun:

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

We wanted to visit it but time was not so forgiving to us. Less than a kilometer from Wat Arun upriver is Tha Tien. When the two chicks got off the boat, we followed suit.

At first glance, Tha Tien doesn’t look too special. It’s a rundown pier with wooden shacks selling perhaps overpriced souvenirs. Just out of the piers are two rows of shophouse of colonial design with cobblestone road separating the two. It doesn’t look British like those omnipresent in Peninsular Malaysian and Singapore. Considering Thai history, I’d think its French but I have no way to confirm it.

Beyond the two rows stands Wat Pho in all its glory. As we entered the complex, which its four sides are walled by the way, a huge structure that houses one of the largest reclining Buddha in Thailand. It’s ornamented with beautiful motives:

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

Everything here was touched by artisans’ hands. Even the ceiling didn’t escape the designer’s attention:

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

Time however is not kind to Wat Pho. Any keen visitor would be able to spot damages the complex is suffering. Take a look at the ceiling in the following picture:

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

Despite that, it’s comforting to know that preservation efforts are underway to protect the complex from further excessive damages. In the previous photo, you could see that some sort of protective shields have been installed the facade. Its doors are also protected by some sort of plastic glass:

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

And yeah, that’s one of the few times that I have posted my one picture here.

I’m not sure how much time I spent at Wat Pho but I’m convinced that we managed see about everything except for one huge temple in the middle which was closed to the public. And so, it was time to move on.

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

p/s – a good read by Deva Mohd Ridzam, former Malaysian ambassador to several countries, in conjuction of tomorrow’s Annual Ministerial Meeting (AMM) of Asean foreign ministers and the ASEAN Regional Forum the day after:

Of the dozen or so documents to be issued, two are seen as truly ground-breaking. They are the framework document on “Asean-US Enhanced Partnership” and the instrument of accession by France to the Treaty of Amity and Co-operation in Southeast Asia (TAC).

The moves by the US and France are expected to breathe new life, as it were, not only into their relations with Asean but also to the wider South Asian and East Asian regions. Taken together, they hold some promise of a gradual transition of Asia based on rule of force to one based on the rule of law. This is what TAC is all about.

Welcome to all fellow Aseanists!

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

pp/s – should ASEAN kick Myanmar out of the equation? Bangkok Post writes:

The Association of Southeast Asian Nations has finally decided it has had enough of its rogue family member. Starting this week at the meeting of foreign ministers in Kuala Lumpur, Asean will stop trying to defend and make excuses for Burma. It is fitting that this action to kick the Rangoon junta out of the family nest and into the undoubtedly cold world is being led by Malaysia, the chairman of the meeting. Malaysia has long been one of the dependable protectors of Burma, leading the argument that everyone must have patience with this hard-line military dictatorship, in order to encourage good behaviour. That policy is being set aside.

I’d prefer to keep Myanmar in as I feel engagement is better than isolation. Moreover, I’d like to see a strong ASEAN influence within the country and in effect, a stronger grouping. If ASEAN calls it a quit, the People’s Republic of China and perhaps even India would have a free hand to exercise excessive influence in Southeast Asia. Even currently, the two regional powers are asserting their interests in Myanmar.

Despite that, I do agree that ASEAN should move forward, regardless of Myanmar’s situation. It’s unfair to chain nine other state members to the ground just because Myanmar refuses to cooperate.

Categories
Photography Travels

[838] Of first and second day in Bangkok, Thailand

Read part 2 at [841] Of the second day in Bangkok, Thailand.

I’ve been to a number of huge cities in the world and my current favorite is San Francisco. After visiting Bangkok, I came very close to reevaluate my preference. While Bangkok failed to unseat San Francisco, I’m content to put Bangkok within my top five major cities that I’ve visited and I love list .

By the time my airplane approached Bangkok, the sun had already set. In the horizon, darkness was fought by light and I could see light everywhere as far as the window by side allowed me to. The sensation reminded me of my approach to Los Angeles. While Bangkok is not as large as Los Angeles, it was an impressive show nonetheless. Upon landing at Don Mueang, I was pumped up as I’m usually do whenever I get to a new place, ever ready to explore new culture and open up my mind to new things.

The airport isn’t as imposing as the Kuala Lumpur International Airport and it does look old. I’m not sure how the old airport is coming up against the traffic but since the new Suvarnabhumi International Airport due to open up this year, I dare say Don Muang facilities are being exhausted to the limit.

After my friends and I had gathered all our stuff, we headed straight to our place at Ratchadapisek by cab. It didn’t take too long to drive from the airport to Ratchadapisek (it was cheap too). I was caught by surpise to see how busy the streets at the airport are. The airport is located quite near to the city – much nearer than how former international airport at Subang was to Kuala Lumpur. And since it was dark, all I could see is the highway and pretty much similar to those within the Klang Valley. So, the journey to our hotel was uneventful.

Once we got to the hotel, we did the usual stuff – unpacking. Things were made a tad harder since some of my travelling mates brought their golf sets. I pity the porter.

Our rooms were alright; nothing to shout of except for the fact that there is a glass shield separating the bedroom with the bathroom. If I were with a girl, I probably wouldn’t mind with that see-through effect. But there was no member of the opposite sex and exposing myself to people of the same gender is not my idea of fun. Thank goodness for the wooden shader!

There were five of us and we had two rooms side by side for us. The connecting door between the two rooms were opened and so, it was, for me at least, felt like an upscale dorm – that just brings up old memory.

After settling down, it was time for dinner. We wanted to eat at somewhere near and cheap and so we got a cab and told the drive just what we wanted – near and cheap. I’m not sure what that Thais think and near and cheap but the ride felt like an hour and we ended up eating a BHT 4,000 dinner. That my friend is MYR 400; approximately USD 115. We could have cheaper dinner at a hotel in downtown Kuala Lumpur for crying out loud! That asides, The tom yam was superb and dinner as a whole was delicious. Painfully delicious. Bottomline is that we were probably screwed by the driver. A friend of my told us that we shouldn’t be too trustful of Thais in certain industries but his advice came a little bit too late. But it’s a lesson to remember. We spent the time back cursing the driver. But it was late and it wasn’t long before we had some shut eyes.

I only woke up around 10 in the morning. In retrospect, I wish I had woken up earlier. This is because I only left my room at Ratchadapisek after 11 and later discovered I really hadn’t too much time to spend at Bangkok. But I did go out and took a ride to downtown Bangkok via its trains.

Anyway, three left for a golf game at 11 while the two – me and a friend – decided to treat ourselves with Bangkok. I still don’t understand why people play a game as lame as golf. Even cricket, that boring game, has some excitement in it. Golf? Why? Only the devil knows.

Back to our main story, Bangkok’s transit system is somewhat better than Kuala Lumpur though it didn’t look as extensive as the latter. I said somewhat better because the train is wider than the widest carriage available within the KL transit system. Still, just like KL, their system isn’t too integrated, just like ours.

This is how their “skytrain” looks like:

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

Since this was our first time in Bangkok, we really had no idea where we wanted to go. I suggested that we go to Menam Chao Phraya and see what needed to be done over there. There was some more discussion among us as we further improvised our already improvised plan. But that wasn’t until we met a cute – I mean, really god damn cute! – girl trying to help us with cute accent and helplessly broken English. As she was trying to explain to us how to get to a place we wanted to go, I didn’t hear anything she was saying. I was simply entralled by her cute. She spoke terrible English anyway and I probably wouldn’t get anything for her instruction. I’m not sure if my friend really was paying attention to the girl instruction too but regardless of that, we did survive our journey rather well on our own.

Apart from cute, I’m impressed at how she was really went out of her way to help us despite having trouble conversing in English. She was really sincerely trying to help us. I soon found out that Thais in general are helpful and extremely polite to strangers. Or at least to tourists.

Alrighty. Enough about the girl. Let’s rewind a bit and start over.

The adventure started just after 11 in the morning at Ratchadapisek – obviously – and we rode two trains to get to a place called Siam in the middle of Bangkok. Once we got off the train, we were still pretty much clueless though it did seem that Siam was Kuala Lumpur’s Bukit Bintang, Singapore’s Orchard Road, Chicago’s Michigan Avenue or New York’s 5th Avenue. But we were uninterested in shopping and were more into sightseeing. I personally was more interested in improving photography skill. So, from there, we walked to the National Stadium, something to see something interesting. I, at least did witness the city’s notorious congestion.

Realizing that there was nothing attractive – save the angels! – along this stretch of road and still clueless, we reached for a map and went straight to the great Menam Chao Phraya, one of the greatest rivers in Southeast Asia. The train didn’t stop immediate by the river but rather, we had to walk from Saphan Taksin station to the river.

Like I said earlier, Bangkok is a dirty city. One of the reasons why I say Bangkok is a dirty city is the fact that many of its canals or khlongs are being left uncared for. The water in it is stangant and murky; cholera is probably common enough occurance to the unwary. In spite of that, there were people fishing!

This is one of the khlongs in Bangkok though it isn’t exactly the khlong I’m referring to:

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

Nevertheless, this particular klong is still unsightly. I like the effect of still water but I wouldn’t take a dip in that thing.

The walk from the station to the river was a short one. The Central Pier greeted us upon arrival. I wasn’t impress by the condition of the pier but neither had I expected anything grand. Once Menam Chao Phraya was before us, we decided to go up and down the river by boat. And so, we hastily got on a boat without asking anybody, ignoring any notice board hung somewhere, if it had existed. If it were written in English.