Categories
Photography Travels

[191] Of adventure in the wilderness of Yosemite IV

Please read part 1, part 2 and part 3.

We cooked some mushroom soup for breakfast to be eaten with some bread. It wasn’t enough for me but I wasn’t really hungry at that time, so I didn’t say anything about the quantity that I had.

By 0700 on 3rd July, everything was ready and we left our first camping ground no later than 0800.

We were supposed to follow the trail that leads to the Ten Lakes but somehow, we had the urge to see the Grand Canyon of Tuolumne. Therefore, instead of going to the right, we headed northwest towards White Wolf.

It wasn’t long until we reached a place where rocks were a predominant landscape instead of soil. We saw a huge rock and decided to climb it. We left the backpacks behind for awhile so that we could climb the rock faster. We got up, armed with a digital camera and a view cam in order to record anything that we would see.

Up there, we saw some footprints. Leman said that it was dears’ prints but I suspect that it were not dears’. In any case, I think it was mountain lion’s print since the prints were somewhat similar to the lion’s print shown the Valley Visitor Center. In any case, a few feet ahead laid a ledge that overlooks the mother of Yosemite Fall, the Yosemite Creek.
The creek was more like a river full of rapids. The water from far looked greenish but a closer look convinced me that the water was crystal clear. And of course, the sound of dashing water made the view surreal in the cold morning. In any case, I was surprised but delighted to be treated by Mother Nature with such a sight so early after we begun our hike.

Me overlooking Yosemite Creek

Once satisfied, we went down the rock to continue our hike. For an hour, our trail went through a forest with a rather flat terrain until a point where trees suddenly ceased to exist on both side of the trail. While the trees gone, an enemy started to appear – mosquitoes.

Actually, even where the trees provided much needed shade for us, the annoying insects were already feasting on our red blood. However, I managed to shake the mosquitoes off me by applying a rather smelly insect repellant. The thing worked greatly at first.

Then, while we were in the open, it seemed that the mosquitoes were making a nest on our shoulders. At one time, there were roughly 20 mosquitoes hanging around on Epol’s right arm. 20! Even when I was in my grandparent grove, never had I ever encountered 20 mosquitoes at one time. We frequently swung our cap from left to right and to the left again so that the mosquitoes wouldn’t have the chance to suck our precious oxygen-rich blood.

As the trees somehow stopped growing at some point, an open space opened up with dried grasses standing almost everywhere. There was nothing worth mentioning about the open space since it was merely sort of a vast field with improper grass.

Somewhere at the end of the field, where the greens started to reconquer the scenery, we took a rest for a few minutes. We did plan to take a longer rest but the insects were getting on our nerve. Consequently, we got on our feet marched from the mosquitoes breeding place with hope that the insects’ would not follow us. On also, from here on, our trail went away from the creek.

It would take another hour or two until we met the creek again. However, the water behavior changed. Rather than the wild dashing white water fighting for its way among the rapids, this time, the atmosphere was relaxing. Calm water as clear as crystal flowing gently towards the Valley.

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams.
The charming rocks

We stopped and freed our shoulders from the evil fat guys and went off trail to check out the creek. Across it, a fallen timber formed an improvised bridge, allowing us to cross the creek without getting wet unnecessarily. On the other side, the stones looked must like Cinderella’s fair skin with the sand acted like her fumes. A type of plant grew as tall as me, became an artist’s finishing touch to the already masterpiece work. I was so entranced by creek that it made me deaf. I didn’t response to neither Leman nor Epol, who was calling me to get back and carry on. With a heavy heart, I returned to them and carried on.

Our backpacks across the creek

Nevertheless, it wasn’t long until we discovered a waterhole with a cliff, some place as high as two meters exists on both sides of the creek. The place seemed to be a marvelous stopping place; the water was so irresistible that we decided to make an unplanned stop and take a swim. With properly place the backpacks against a fallen, almost rotting tree trunk, we with an unusual fast speed, got into our swimming gear, ready to jump straight into the water.

Irresistable isn’t it?

Unfortunately, we didn’t realize that the water was icy cold despite the Sun shining at full capacity. The first and only victim was Leman, who jumped from a full two meter high ledge into the water. We were still on the dry ground when we saw Leman was struggling back to the ground. Upon seeing that, both Epol and I put our jumping trip on hold and checked Leman out. Leman later strongly recommend us not to jump; we simply adhered to his advice.

It would be a waste not to take a little swim at such pristine water located in the middle of the forest high up somewhere nearby to the Sierra Nevada. So, we still went into the water slowly. I in particular took a long time to get into the water. Once in the water, I simply found it hard to breathe because the temperature of the water was so low compared to my usual body temperature. Nevertheless, I did enjoy having my whole body submerged in the cold refreshing water.

The time I took to get out of the water was as long as the time I took to get into the water. This was our first bath since we left Ann Arbor and so, I tried to be in the water as long as possible until I suddenly came to realize that something is wrong with our little detour to the canyon. I got out, put some new clothing to my half naked body and asked Leman for the map.

For today, we were supposed to camp somewhere in the middle between Yosemite Creek and White Wolf. I made a few rough calculations and confirmed my fear. If we were to follow the plan, there is no way we could make it to the Valley back in time without missing our flight back to Michigan. After voicing out my opinion, we realized that we must hike more than 14 miles (roughly 23 km). Deep in my heart, I thought it was an impossible hike although I was the one that first raised the issue.

Thus, we got our backpacks and marched with a renewed mission. We left the waterhole sometimes at 1100.

Categories
Photography Travels

[190] Of adventure in the wilderness of Yosemite III

Please read part 1 and part 2.

And so the journey started.

At 1500 hours, we left Curry Village, a quite happening place in the Valley, by bus towards the starting point of our journey, which was Upper Yosemite Fall Trail.

Our full party started the expedition rather plainly at first. We got off the bus and immediately followed a well marked trail closely until at one point, which was really less than half a mile, when we somehow got off the trail. Without a trail, our journey towards our first planned campground, Yosemite Creek was being slowed down tremendously. I believe, every 10 minutes, we had to send out a scout to observe the upcoming obstacle and to make sure that we weren’t lost. As moments passed, we started to figure out that we were lost. Being careful, we consulted the map and decided to go straight upward until we hit the wall that became the base of the whole mass.

Before I go on further, let me explain the topography of our starting point. The starting point is rather flat and the trail goes to the east. The trail heads east simply because northward, a sort of shield wall rises well about 4000 ft vertically. However, a few hundred meters before the wall, a rather tolerable slope persists from the road and the bus stop up till the wall. With that explained, now it is easier to explain why we decided to go up to the base of the wall.

The real trail, the one that we somehow veered from, goes straight to the east and it doesn’t turn north in about a mile. We got off the trail somewhere in between our starting point and the point where the trail heads north. Therefore, through our improvised map (I seriously recommend buying a complete topographical map for a hiking trip. Its benefit far outweighs its cost. Trust me on this), we figured out that if we go up first and heads east later, we will eventually hit the trail again. This way, we would save time rather than having to backtrack our every step. Logically acceptable.

True enough, we hit the trail later.

From here on, the ascent was steep and the climb was slow. Of the entire trail that we pursued, this was the steepest trail ever but it was not the worst since we still had energy. Our muscles weren’t heavily contaminated with lactic acid yet.

While hiking up, we noticed that a blue bird was following us, flying from tree to tree, singing. I thought at first that I was simply seeing a few birds from the same species. Later however, Leman and Epol agreed that it was the same birds that we kept on seeing as we climbed higher. The bird was very resilient in following and I do think that the bird stalked us for more than two hours. And seeing the bird frequently, we implicitly came to a union of naming it Blue Jay, with the Jay was the Jay from “J”-e-ba-i. Macam haram but a cool name for the bird nonetheless =).

The rise was slow and we, especially me, took lots of rest, every time I had the chance. We also talked to a number of day hikers who came just to see the Yosemite Valley up from the Fall.

We climbed and sweated until a person told us to be careful of a snake, located merely around 400 yards away from us. He told us to watch for a bottle placed on a rock where the snake was supposed to be. Interested in seeing the reptile, we quickened our pace but only to be disappointed to see no snake there. The snake could have probably left the place.

We continued our hike and made lots of stop. And Blue Jay was still following us, most probably trying its luck for food from us.

It was perhaps some time between 1700 and 1800 that we reached a lookout point that faces the Valley with the Fall directly behind us. We decided to take a long stop here in order to enjoy the view.

From here, the Valley seemed to be much smaller that it was when we were way down below. I stood at the edge and looked down and it was a feeling that almost anybody would definitely enjoy – the sense of greatness and power, with you standing high above from the other strangers below.

I wonder how it was like back in 1997, when El Nino wrecked havoc almost all over the world, including in Yosemite. El Niño was a natural phenomenon. However, in 1997, due to adverse pollution effect, the weather went mad. The unnatural heat forced the glaciers in the Sierra Nevada to melt more than it should. As a direct result, the usually calm Merced River was forced to make some room for more fresh water. Apparently, the River failed to accommodate the huge water quantity and went over its limit. Thus, the whole Valley was flooded with the water depth was well over 5 feet. With that depth, even a bus would have been flooded.

From where I stood, I would see a lake for certain.

To the east, Half Dome stands silently with the old Sierra Nevada on the background.
The Valley’s south wall was struck by the mighty Sun’s ray and I would imagine the heat was almost unbearable. The other south wall, where El Capitan Fall is located, was very barren compared to its northern counterpart, where we were. No doubt the heat changed the vegetation. Down in the Valley, conifer trees take up the entire place along the flowing Merced River with a small Chapel standing quietly somewhere among the green trees. The wind was also noticeably strong but not too strong. Maybe suited in the moderate breeze classification.

After catching up with our breath, we went on with the mission. By 2030, it was already dark but we were still on the trail, seeing no flat site suitable for camping. Thus, we stopped awhile to perform both the Zohor and Asar prayer before the Sun succumbed to the Luna. Once done, we continued a little bit farther before we met a fork and the time was about 2100. One was heading to the Creek, straight to the Ten Lakes and all the way to the Tuolumne Meadows while the other path leads to Lake Luken, White Wolf and eventually to the Grand Canyon of Tuolumne.

The Sun was nowhere to be found in the sky and it was so dark, that the stars up high in heaven were visible to the naked eyes. I recognized a few of the constellations that I’ve always failed to spot in Michigan or even in Malaysia due to both pollution and geographical factors. As a Vulcan would say, it would be a logical point of action to stop and make a camp rather than risk being lost up in the high country.

Thus, we camped. There were two tents, one for Leman and the other for Epol and I. I had to share with Epol since I had a larger tent.

Firewood was everywhere so we didn’t really have to go far from our camping site to search for it. Once both the camps and the fire were done, we cooked and went directly to sleep. And it worth to point out that we actually slept rather early, at 2230. It was considerably cold. Luckily, the sleeping bag managed to conserve some of my body heat to let me to sleep comfortably.

Total distance traveled was about 4 miles, which is about 6 km. Elevation gained through hiking was more than 4000 ft.

The next morning, we woke up at 0500 and the Sun was already prepared for the new day. Unfortunately, I was not in the same league as the Sun. Nevertheless, I still woke up and tried to to join the Sun’s adventure.

Courtesy of Epol

Our first stop was some where near Yosemite Creek, the first blue line, southmost, drawn on the map. For a larger version, click here.errata – Blue Jay is actually the name of the species. Nevertheless, after checking the net for more information, I’m convinced that the bird is not Blue Jay (Cyanocitta cristata). The main difference is the bird that I saw had a sort of noticeable crown on its head while the picture that I found shows that typical Blue Jay has a smoother head, or a simple extension of fur behind its head. And also geographically, blue jay is mainly found on the east side of the Rocky while Yosemite is on the southwestern side of the Rocky. On the other hand, the bird might had migrated here and it really is blue jay and I am wrong about naming it after me. =) Thanks to Epol for correcting that embrassing mistake.

more errata – In order to make out my mistake, I did a little research about the said bird and found out that the bird was not a Blue Jay. As it turned out, Jay has a huge family. The Jay that I saw was Stellar’s Jay (Cyanocitta stelleri), the one species that was mentioned in John Muir’s journal. “Often mistakenly called the Blue Jay, this Jay is a typical member of the Corvidae family, sharing its loud calls, bold nature and scavenging habits with crows and other Jays.”(http://www.naturepark.com/stellars.htm, par. 2)

Categories
Environment Solar car

[189] Of Missouri-Rolla wins

University of Missouri-Rolla won the Solar Car Race, as expected. They also managed to break the record set by the University of Michigan Solar Car Team 2 years ago.

Congratulations but now, it’s time for World Solar Challenge in Australia. Michigan is still comtemplating on joining. As for me, I can’t risk to not attend the Fall semester.

Nevertheless, I will still be the background crew for the team.

Quote of the day
“…Consumerism in the end will leave this world nothing but a broken shell. Unlimited wants and a limited rock to live on. We better find a way to travel the stars soon.”
– wyldwulfwytch, in a forum concerning whaling industry.

Categories
This blog

[188] Of new meter for the blog

Test for new meter. I hate grammar. Can’t live with them, can’t live without them.

Categories
Solar car Travels

[187] Of adventure in the wilderness of Yosemite II

Please read part 1.

We brought a ticket to Merced via Bakersfield (LA and Bakersfield are connected by a bus) at the Los Angeles Union Station and later, chose a spot in the station to rest. I hadn’t slept yet so waking up till 0400 hours was a little tough to do. So, after discussing with Leman, we planned to meet up at the Park’s Visitor Center an hour after noon. If we failed to reach there by the agreed time, he was going to leave the Valley, our hiking starting point without us.

So, he left with the 0100 train and us.

We were all alone. At least it was better than the original plan. The original plan was designed before Epol join our little party. With Leman got the trip planned up a few months up front (it might be a few weeks but you get the idea), I didn’t get the chance to follow closely his steps from Ann Arbor to Detroit.

The original plan for me was to get a cab from Ann Arbor to Detroit, get on a plane to SFO Airport in San Francisco (home of many cool electronic companies, such as Blogger.com and of course somewhere around there, the Googleplex, Google’s HQ), get a bus to from the airport to Emeryville, situated across the bay and from Everyville, towards Merced. Plus, the ticket price to SFO was about 10 or 30 bucks cheaper. But with Epol joining in, the ticket price to LAX seemed to decrease and thus, the ticket issue went to the surface no more.

Well, we didn’t get mugged in the station nor did we lose anything but time certainly crawled. I fell reluctantly into slumber and later woke up because my back hurts. It was 0130.

Slept again, but the chair was so uncomfortable. It was 0200++.

Slept again, woke up and still it was not 0300.

Slept again, woke up and it was just about 0300.

Slept again, woke up and I said “OMG, time really crawl slower than snail.”

Time really crawled I tell you.

I was about to sleep again but then, I bought a pop (pop means soda, thanks to Mike from Cambridge 300++ for drilling the term into my head) and stayed up well till 0500++. By 0400, the connecting bus was here. The bus was very punctual even at 0400. I wonder if Malaysian bus service will ever get on par with US standard.

We got on the bus and the bus had only 4 passengers; they were me, Epol and two other black guys. As I said before, I slept in the bus at around 0500. Had a weird dream but forgot what it was about.

Later, at around 0600 or so, my two eyelids reopened and I was amazed by the sight outside the bus. Both to my left and right rose rocky rolling hills up into the dark morning sky. The hills seem to cooperate with each other to form a high wall on both side of the road. From a more logical thinking, most probably the civil engineers decided to cut by the side of the hills. But in any case, there were a lot of naturally built hills on both side of the highway. The most breathtaking event on the LA-Bakersfield journey was the way how the hills suddenly disappeared to open up a gale and from that gale, a long, huge valley was formed. With the grasses in the valley that you could only see in Western movies swaying , I did hold my breath for a few moments. And there was a small lake, might be more suitable to be called a big pond somewhere on the right side of the road. And I had finally seen what I had read in book; the famous California Aqueduct. It looked like a huge drain but nevertheless, seeing something that shaped Californian history is something.

There were a few moments during all this when I was about to ask the camera from Epol but seeing him asleep made me changed my mind. So, I sat all by myself enjoying the view before falling helplessly into dreams again.

We reached Bakersfield about an hour or so later. Bakersfield, what can I say? It looked like a typical American town you could see in old blank and white American movies. It gave me the creep although there was nothing scary about it.

We got off the bus and waited for the train to arrive. Took off a few photos and drank a cup of coffee to keep my spirit up a bit. I wasn’t downed. I was just plain sleepy. It wasn’t long before the train reached Bakersfield.

Just before we got onto the train car, a conductor gave us a tip to get on the first car. He said that the first car is usually empty. I said thanks and went for the first car. True enough, it was empty. We went for the car’s upper level and took up eight seats just for us, four each. Two for my big ass backpack and two for me with a table in the middle. Cool huh?

The train left the town some time after 0700, almost 0800.

And shit, I lost my note. This is what happens when you use tissue papers as writing papers. I used tissue papers as note papers because I forgot to get a note book from Ann Arbor and I can’t find anything in Detroit and in Houston. I’m digressing but since I can’t find my note, I’ll just have to write straight from my head. Here goes nothing.

When Bakersfield was out of sight, Epol and I gave the galley a visit. Bought a fillet and some drinks. It was not sufficient as a lunch but I guess that had to do for the time being.

Before I forget, the scenery on the way from Bakersfield to Merced was less spectacular than the rolling hills I saw outside of LA. However, it was still great. From the train, I saw all kind of plantations and it seems like the grove expands to the end of the horizon. Green grapes or whatever it was grew almost as tall as the train’s two-story car. The yellowish wheat, it might be just dry grasses, grew almost everywhere and odd enough, it was beautiful. This was the biggest plantation area and the biggest valley in the whole America and I saw it all from the ground.

It view outside the windows didn’t change a bit all the way from Bakersfield to Merced. It was green and then it was yellow, green, yellow and again green and yellow. Too much green and yellow made me fell to sleep slowly. I slept all the way until the conductor announced that Merced was the next station. Of the two days of travel, I found sleeping Amtrak train most comfortable.

We reached Merced Station around 1100 hours. Merced Station was definitely smaller than Ann Arbor’s. I asked the man behind the counter where I could buy a bus ticket to Yosemite. The man told me to just go outside and wait for a guy. Convincing indeed but I was an outsider. So, I just went outside and indeed there was a lady asking “Are you going to Yosemite?” I obviously say “Yes we are”. Sounds funnily like a covert operation but what the heck.

Later, the bus came and picked us up. From there on, off we go to Yosemite.

The ride to Yosemite Valley was cool. The bus driver was talkative like hell, worse than the cab driver back in LA. Nevertheless, the driver was at least informative.

As we were about to leave Merced, I saw, I actually saw the whole town. The town is more pathetic than Purdue’s (no offense mates) West Lafayette. And this little puny town is going to be the home of UC’s tenth campus home. I wonder how the UC Merced’s future undergraduates are going to survive hell of boredom. On the bright side, at least Merced is much more better (notice the redundant superlative thingy or whatever they used to call it in grammar class) than Universiti Petronas back in whatever the town is called. And town at least has some aesthetic value. Boy, I am sure glad to leave that desolate university in order to attend Michigan.

Digressing again.

The scenery during the first half of Merced-Yosemite route was the same as the Bakersfield-Merced route. We were in the huge valley still.

During the travel, I found out that Merced (before I forget, it is pronounced as ma-sed, not merced as in Mercedes) means mercy in Spanish, a name derived from Merced River. The Spaniard, back during their golden seafaring age, traveled all the way from the east coast to modern day California. As they walked and explored, their water supply started to dwindle. I would suspect that a lot of Spaniard soldiers died from thirst. And then, they found out that God still love them and therefore, they saw a sizable flowing water. And Voila! They called it Merced.

Furthermore, as I have said earlier, the yellowish grasses that fill the California are omnipresent. This is the actual reason why California is called the Golden State, instead of the famous gold rush that happened back in the 19th century.

As the terrain rose, some oaks started to appear on the hills along the road. Their density became dense slowly as we move further uphill. According to the conductor, we actually gained something like 4000 ft vertically. It was nothing really impressive but it was kind of hard to see how we had gained that altitude. Nevertheless, the gorges and the valley sighted from far above seemed to strengthen the fact, or at least the conductor’s words.

And of course, Merced River flows on the left side of the road, down below.

It wasn’t until an hour or so until we reached Mariposa, a small old town situated almost in the high country. The town looks as though it had never progresses with time save a fairly modern bus station and a few noticeable satellite dishes. And of course, the cars but still, most of it were something from the 70s.

The bus made a stop at the town and later continued on with the journey. Oak density was getting out of hand until it seemed that they had formed a whole forest. The climb too had increased although I believe it was just around 20 to 30 degree.

It wasn’t until another hour till we reached the entrance to the Park.

There was a small ranger house at the entrance, giving out permit and that sort of stuff. The entrance to the Park itself magnificent, instead of a road with a gate, two rocks, which I can’t figure out whether it was naturally built or man made, sandwich the road, making it very tight to pass. The bus barely made it without a scratch.

Entering the Park was a great experience. Right after the sandwich rocks, we were greeted with a valley, apparently called Yosemite Valley with Merced Rived still flowing on the left side of the road. A few landmarks came up. There was a mountain top called the Three Brothers. It was called the Three Brothers since the mountain has three similar peaks. The first person to find it, a Red Indian chief saw it and somehow named each peak after his three sons. There were some other obscure details but I can’t recall it.

Then we finally reached the center of activity of the valley. First thing that was noticeable was how narrow the valley is with two sort of mountain ranges (the whole thing were still called Sierra Nevada. I thought it was the Rocky but in truth, it was a few hundred miles northward. In reality, the ranges are not ranges but merely a wall of mountains surrounding the Valley). Although it is a narrow valley, it is still wide enough to contain perhaps about 2000 or even more people at one time. The next noticeable landmark is the meadows. Green grasses cover most of the area where the conifer trees fail to grow at. While on the bus, I noticed that the meadows were under conservation project funded by Chevron. I simply smiled at the Industrialist’s hypocrisy.

It’s not that I think Chevron funding a conservation project is a bad idea. In fact, the Green needs every bit of help. However, the industrialist is doing too little to fight a non-petite problem. Similarly, how Bush is encouraging the development of fuel cell in order to fight the accelerated global warming. And also, in a way, they are only trying to shift public opinion on fossil fuel usage rather than having the conscience to actually help the public to fight the real problem.

Anyway, we saw El Capitan, one of the highest fall in the world (with the highest fall is Angel Fall in Venezuela), Yosemite Falls and dome shaped Half Dome rock.

We got off the bus some time before 1300, just enough time to call Leman on his mobile and told him to wait for us. Once that was accomplished, we went straight ahead to a nearly grill restaurant and filled our sorry stomach before the storm.

After we were filled, we met Leman later at the Valley Visitor Center. At the time we found him, he was chewing a bagel and talking to some guy whom was doing a geology research for UC. Once done chatting with that person, we when to the ranger place and apply for the wilderness permit with a bear can; a can that we needed to keep our food save from the black bear.

At this point, I was amused at the bear learning rate. I tell you it is fast. The black bears are able to open the normal screw head bottle. They are able to open all other stuff. Perhaps this is another reason why we need to keep the wilderness wild. A wilderness with a bear able to drive a car is certainly a civilized wilderness and scary.

After attaining the wilderness permit, we conducted a search for a burner. The search was a failure and thus, we decided to go ahead with the hiking expedition without the burner. After all, we did have two lighters, a solid fuel and a lot of fire woods. It might sound polluting but hey, I fight for a sustainable growth, not for “back to the primitive” as some people had portrayed us falsely. Speaking of back to the primitive, Soulfly sucks big time. With a full stomach and nothing bad going on yet, we decided to start out ascent to the top of Yosemite Fall at 1500.

And the pain begins here.

p/s – if you think Solar Car race is boring, check this out:
Cal Sol (Berkeley) arrived last night. Just outside of Tucumcari yesterday afternoon while they were racing on the interstate a tractor-trailer sped by and blew off their canopy. Then the force of air inside the car without a canopy proceeded to blow off their solar array! It lifted up, turned 180 degrees, caught on their roll bar and came to a sliding stop behind the solar car. Fortunately, no one was hurt and neither was the array. It only has some scrapes on the underside. They trailered to Albuquerque to be on the safe side. The team says they will be ready to start again tomorrow morning.”

Taken from American Solar Challenge, a report by Richard King from U.S. Department of Energy.