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Activism Environment Photography Travels

[731] Of the great flood of Pasir Kumpal

I spent almost a week last week at Pasir Kumpal, a huge river bank by the Dungun River in Terengganu. If you’ve been following my blog, you’ll know that I was there on a conservation work. Like I said earlier, it’s a gazetted area essential to the survival of an endangered terrapin species, Batagur baska.

While there, all, including me, had to patrol the bank and locate and record terrapins’ landing and nests. There were a few other responsibilities that needed to be carried out but there are not worth mentioning. You could say that I had proper expectation of things to do. That was until the unexpected happened.

Pasir Kumpal has an unpredictable weather pattern. I’m not sure whether if it’s due to micro-climate or that’s just how the weather works in Terengganu but within a day, it could rain several times with varying magnitude, interspaced with bright sunny day. It could be charmingly clear for a few hours and then heavy rainfall all the sudden the minute you started to blink. The wind is also exceptionally strong given that it’s more than ten miles – 16 km – away the South China Sea:

Fair use. Google Map

I think, Pasir Kumpal is within the red circle. This is my approximation in a Malaysian Public Works Department-produced map (JKR; Jabatan Kerja Raya):

Works of Government of Malaysia. Fair Use.

For the JKR’s map, I’m not sure of the license but since it’s a work of a government, it should be a public domain. But just to be safe, I’ll try fair use.

If you’re interested, I’ve linked the location at Google Map. Google rocks! And yeah, that reminds me, Malaysia needs a system just like Mapquest. Currently, the best useful Malaysia map for civilian purpose available online is at JKR. That’s simply insufficient.

Which reminds me, I need to SMS Samy Vellu. LOL! Sorry for that lame joke but Samy Vellu brought this upon himself. He simply committed hilariously bad political maneuver. But at least, in the end, he opened up a “24-Hour Public Complaints Bureau“, which is good. Aight. That’s a digression. Back to our little story.

As you may have known, there is a big flood in Terengganu currently. Not as huge as the one hit the whole northern region of the Malay Peninsula last December but it’s big nonetheless. When the flood first happened, I was by the Dungun River, witnessing first hand how the water level rose drastically in less than a day.

By February 10, there were about four terrapin nests at Pasir Kumpal. On the same day, for the first time, it rained heavily for a prolonged period. The water level was noticeably higher than usual. By evening time, with the help of the moon gravitational pull, it rose even higher. Full moon was a few days away.

Around midnight, two turtle nests were succumbing to the river. So, we were actually forced to save the nests. One nest was terribly close to the water line. In order to retrieve the eggs and bring it to safety, we had to dig the nest. The act of retrieving the eggs was hard work and became impossible as the water level rose further. As foolish as it may sound, we actually built a sand wall around the nest as a small dam to prevent water from interfering us from retrieving the eggs. Regardless, this particular nest had already been inundated with water. In the end, out of – if I recall correctly – 10 eggs, 3 were recovered, 4 damaged and the rest were lost to the river. If you were here, you could actually feel disappointment in the air. I felt helpless even before we built the dam.

We had better luck with the second nest and recovered all safely. As for the two remaining nests, we managed to relocate one while another went under water probably around six in the morning.

I was scheduled to patrol the sand bank at 3 AM with one of two professors there, Dr. Kuchling. Heh, overslept but thankfully, the good professor woke me up at 3.30 AM. Heh, he overslept too. About him, I find his background rather, er, interesting. He was born in Austria but is an Australian citizen. So, he’s an Austrian Australian. The word play is just uncanny.

Anyway, during my round, a quarter of the huge sand bank was under water. By 6 AM, as reported, “there was no more beach to patrol”. By 9 AM, when I woke up, I could already see the water from where I slept. Earlier, I had to go down the bank to see the water.

Since it was a tough night, another Professor, Prof. Chan, a ranger and I decided to go out to town to get some real breakfast for the rest of the party. Little did we know at that time that the bridge that connects Pasir Kumpal with civilization had been submerged under water. Trapped, Marooned. Fucked. Choose your favorite word. So, no real breakfast for us.

We turned back but the all the rangers ventured out regardless. I don’t know how they got out. They swam I suppose.

Despite the fact that Pasir Kumpal had become Kumpal island, we didn’t think it could get any worse than this. Reason is, the local said that it would be unlikely for the river to flood our campsite. They said a typical bad flood would only reach the vegetation’s edge. Some of those with vehicle weren’t willing to bet on it. Hence, they moved their vehicles up to higher ground. Since it was dirt road and it rained hard the day before, a four-wheel-drive and a rope were great blessings.
By 3 PM, water was about 20 meter away from the hut. And there was a downpour again. At 5 PM, water just kept on creeping up. Edge of the vegetation, eh? Yeah, whatever.

For proof, this is a patch of green about midway from water to vegetation’s edge on the first or second day:

Works of Government of Malaysia. Fair Use.

This is on the 11th, around 3 or 4 PM, shot from my “bed”:

Works of Government of Malaysia. Fair Use.

Members of the party were already talking about emergency plan. It wasn’t much a plan. Even if it had worked, I doubt we would be safe.

Later, near six, the rangers came back and more importantly, they brought with them roti canai! Oh, yeah. They came in by a boat. Also, at six, I needed to take less than 10 steps from the place that I slept to get to the river. It was that bad.

So, we packed, ate our lunch-cum-tea with roti canai and were soon evacuated all the way to Kuala Terengganu, nearly 100 km up north.

If the party had spent another day at Pasir Kumpal, I don’t think I’d be blogging right now. According to Pelf, the campsite had gone submerged the day after.

I wonder what Noah would do in our situation. Meh.

About the rainfall that contributed to the flood, some locals said that this flood is coming a bit late. Such downpour should be done in January. And it seems that this weird weather pattern is also hitting the Philippines and caused a massive landslide yesterday. I want to suspect climate change but the Northeast Monsoon that starts in November will only end around March. So, I won’t and can’t point at climate change just yet.

p/s – Blogger had a bit of problem and I lost a few recent comments. So, if you found your comment is lost, feel free to repost it. =)

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Activism Environment Humor Photography Travels

[730] Of a little log at Pasir Kumpal

More of Pasir Kumpal.

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

That calm water was Dungun River before the flood .

To me, Pasir Kumpal is an amazing geographical feature. The place is actually a sandy bank by the Dungun River, a little over ten miles inland. It’s huge with more than a kilometer in length, about maybe 50 meters in width on average. Never had I ever imagined such place exist at such size. It’s like a big beach in the middle of a jungle!

Don’t trust me? Well, take a look at these pictures.

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

This is at one end, roughly looking east.

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

At the same spot, looking north.

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

West. Notice the distance between vegetation (left) and water edge (right).

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

At the other end, looking northeast.

Due to the importance of the place to the survival of river terrapins – Batagur baska, an endangered species; tuntung in Malay – it’s been gazetted as a conservation site by the state of Terengganu. This place might as well be the largest nesting site for this species in the world given that Malaysia is “last stronghold of the terrapins“, “Dungun River probably represents the largest remaining wild population in Malaysia” and that Pasir Kumpal is most likely the largest of all sandy banks of Dungun River.

The only drawbacks about this place are; one, no or little reception – believe it or not, only Celcom works there no matter its signal strength; two, some sort of parasites that eat your blood, known as tuau tungau in Malay; three, leeches. An army of leeches. Four; a little hard to get to. Much harder to get out in my case.

p/s – I knew one of these days Ann Coulter would get into trouble. Right now, her fellow conservatives are shying away from her due to Coulter’s recent racist remark. Suddenly, association with her is a sin. LOL! She may have committed fraud too! Hahaha. Republicans have too many problems. Cheney, DeLay, Abramoff. The list is endless.

pp/s – Been going on for a few days now but it will never get old.

Stewart was on fire tonight:

“Whittington was mistaken for a bird.”

“Harry Whittington, seasoned to an inch of his life.”

“Don’t let your kids go hunting with the Vice President. I don’t care what kind of lucrative contracts they’re trying to land or-energy regulations they’re trying to get lifted. He’ll shoot them in the face.”

Rob Corddry joined in.

Corddry : “Jon, tonight the Vice President is standing by his decision to shoot Harry Whittington. Now according to the best intelligence available, there were quail hidden in the brush. Everyone believed at the time-there-were-quail in the brush. And while the quail turned out to be the 78 year old man. Even knowing that today, Mr. Cheney insists-he still would have shot Mr. Whittington in the face.

Jon rocks! (via)

Categories
Environment History & heritage Photography Travels

[729] Of Kuala Terengganu and raging South China Sea

I’m not in the mood of blogging but I still wanted to post something nonetheless. So, photo time!

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

I caught this at Kuala Terengganu . Batu Burok beach if I’m not mistaken. The wind there was so strong that there were small waves forming in a pothole filled with water. Nevermind the sea waves!

I had great expectation for this photo when I first shot it. I actually invested more or less 15 minutes to shoot that particular wave. Yet, once I got back to my desktop, it’s hard not to feel disappointed with the result. Too much noise; dull colors. Sigh…

Despite that disappointment, Kuala Terengganu is a cool little city. Not quite large, enough people and has a pretty slow lifestyle. More importantly, it’s way more walkable than Kuala Lumpur.

A lot has changed since I last visited Terengganu more than a decade ago. A turtle sculpture that used to symbolize the town has been replaced with a giant replica of batu bersurat. What is batu bersurat?

I’m not sure what its equivalent English noun for it (inscripted stone?) but I have a picture of it. I saw it at a museum here in Kuala Lumpur a couple of months back. It’s the oldest artifact with Jawi writing on it.

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

Suffice to say, it’s an important historical artifact. But I still miss the giant turtle sculpture.

New development projects are also in place. I strongly feel that some of the projects should have been done years ago. But PAS government that controlled the state apparently didn’t do their job when they had the chance to prove themselves. Despite my reservation for Barisan Nasional, at least, BN is doing their job to promote economic growth.

Also, huge barriers are being constructed at the mouth of Terengganu River. I had a chat with a local about it and he said the project is essential to protect the city from sea surgepp/s. I was so interested in the barriers that I climbed up to Bukit Puteri, a hill near the river mouth and observed it from above.

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

Though it can’t be seen from the photo, the barriers are in great length. The river mouth right now is almost completely covered. I think there is a better way to protect the city but since I lack knowledge in hydrology as well as civil engineering, I shall refrain from criticizing. I’d sound like a fool if I were to comment too much on it.

But in all, I like Kuala Terengganu, especially the wind. The people there are a bit conservative for my liking but I’m convinced the wind could blow the conservatives away from me.

p/s – Newmont gets its way.

JAKARTA, Feb 16 (Reuters) – The world’s biggest gold miner, Newmont Mining Corp., is paying Indonesia $30 million to settle a civil suit over pollution, but will still face criminal charges in a case closely watched by foreign investors.

The episode first started way back in 2004.

pp/s – I might have meant tidal or storm surge. (Back)

Categories
Environment Photography Travels

[728] Of a lighthouse by Terengganu River and looking back

I’m in the process of updating my diary that has been neglected for more than six months now. So much to write for a week worth of lifetime. I really like to blog part of it too, especially about how I in a party of six (or seven) tried to save a few terrapin eggs by hopelessly trying to ward off rising river water level by building a small sand dam. And of course, the eventual evacuation out of Dungun. If I remembered correct, I did make two of the most memorable quotes I had ever uttered in my life. I really want to share that but just not yet.

For now, this is one of the better photos that I managed while I was in Kuala Terengganu .

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

A small lighthouse by the South China Sea, near the mouth of the river. I’m quite lucky to catch the structure against a blue sky. Despite the appearance of a sunny day, it was a pretty bad day; the clouds threatened to wreck havoc just as it had when I was in Pasir Kumpal.

It is quite worrying to find out that when I left Pasir Kumpal behind, the worst hadn’t past yet. Flood hit the northeastern states again, especially Kelantan, Terengganu and Pahang, immediately after I left for Kuala Lumpur on the 13th. From the look of it, the flood has yet to recede.

At the same time, Kenyir Dam was overflowing. When Kenyir Dam is unable to cope with a situation, it’s not a laughing matter. I’m not sure though if Dungun River is connected to the Dam. But I know Terengganu River is.

After witnessing the flood in the northeastern states first hand, I’m convinced that the Ninth Malaysian Plan must concentrate on drainage and irrigation system. It happens every year in the north and that means we’re not doing enough to adapt to Malaysian tropical rainfall. Forget about funding moral police. Moral police doesn’t save lives. Drainage and irrigation projects do.

And, ehem, there was a strong storm with torrential downpour here in Kuala Lumpur just this evening. I’m sure glad the rate of surviving a storm in Kuala Lumpur is higher than Dungun’s.

Categories
Activism Environment Photography Travels

[727] Of evacuation, deepest gratitude to PERHILITAN and home sweet home

Finally, after biting more than I could chew, I’m now in Kuala Lumpur again. Pasir Kumpal in Dungun was severely flooded and I along with a few others – two professors, two reporters from The Star and another volunteer – in the end were marooned there and later evacuated by PERHILITAN; Malaysian Department of Wildlife and National Park . Will tell you later of my crazy story. If you don’t have the patience for it, visit Pelf’s blog. She’s a friend I made at Pasir Kumpal. Her entries will give you some picture of what happened there. I’ve also added her into my blogroll.

Also, this post is dedicated to PERHILITAN. Especially rangers Encik Adnan and Encik Ibrahim that took care of us – in effect, saving our lives from a major flood – and to Encik Ghazali, the department state deputy director for evacuating me all the way to Kuala Terengganu from Dungun. Not forgetting, the locals, including Rosli and Pak Long that were helpful in my time of need.

Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams. Some rights reserved

This is for PERHILITAN; for all the good works they’re doing for the environment. And for evacuating us to safety!

For now, I totally need to get some rest.