Categories
Photography Travels

[190] Of adventure in the wilderness of Yosemite III

Please read part 1 and part 2.

And so the journey started.

At 1500 hours, we left Curry Village, a quite happening place in the Valley, by bus towards the starting point of our journey, which was Upper Yosemite Fall Trail.

Our full party started the expedition rather plainly at first. We got off the bus and immediately followed a well marked trail closely until at one point, which was really less than half a mile, when we somehow got off the trail. Without a trail, our journey towards our first planned campground, Yosemite Creek was being slowed down tremendously. I believe, every 10 minutes, we had to send out a scout to observe the upcoming obstacle and to make sure that we weren’t lost. As moments passed, we started to figure out that we were lost. Being careful, we consulted the map and decided to go straight upward until we hit the wall that became the base of the whole mass.

Before I go on further, let me explain the topography of our starting point. The starting point is rather flat and the trail goes to the east. The trail heads east simply because northward, a sort of shield wall rises well about 4000 ft vertically. However, a few hundred meters before the wall, a rather tolerable slope persists from the road and the bus stop up till the wall. With that explained, now it is easier to explain why we decided to go up to the base of the wall.

The real trail, the one that we somehow veered from, goes straight to the east and it doesn’t turn north in about a mile. We got off the trail somewhere in between our starting point and the point where the trail heads north. Therefore, through our improvised map (I seriously recommend buying a complete topographical map for a hiking trip. Its benefit far outweighs its cost. Trust me on this), we figured out that if we go up first and heads east later, we will eventually hit the trail again. This way, we would save time rather than having to backtrack our every step. Logically acceptable.

True enough, we hit the trail later.

From here on, the ascent was steep and the climb was slow. Of the entire trail that we pursued, this was the steepest trail ever but it was not the worst since we still had energy. Our muscles weren’t heavily contaminated with lactic acid yet.

While hiking up, we noticed that a blue bird was following us, flying from tree to tree, singing. I thought at first that I was simply seeing a few birds from the same species. Later however, Leman and Epol agreed that it was the same birds that we kept on seeing as we climbed higher. The bird was very resilient in following and I do think that the bird stalked us for more than two hours. And seeing the bird frequently, we implicitly came to a union of naming it Blue Jay, with the Jay was the Jay from “J”-e-ba-i. Macam haram but a cool name for the bird nonetheless =).

The rise was slow and we, especially me, took lots of rest, every time I had the chance. We also talked to a number of day hikers who came just to see the Yosemite Valley up from the Fall.

We climbed and sweated until a person told us to be careful of a snake, located merely around 400 yards away from us. He told us to watch for a bottle placed on a rock where the snake was supposed to be. Interested in seeing the reptile, we quickened our pace but only to be disappointed to see no snake there. The snake could have probably left the place.

We continued our hike and made lots of stop. And Blue Jay was still following us, most probably trying its luck for food from us.

It was perhaps some time between 1700 and 1800 that we reached a lookout point that faces the Valley with the Fall directly behind us. We decided to take a long stop here in order to enjoy the view.

From here, the Valley seemed to be much smaller that it was when we were way down below. I stood at the edge and looked down and it was a feeling that almost anybody would definitely enjoy – the sense of greatness and power, with you standing high above from the other strangers below.

I wonder how it was like back in 1997, when El Nino wrecked havoc almost all over the world, including in Yosemite. El Niño was a natural phenomenon. However, in 1997, due to adverse pollution effect, the weather went mad. The unnatural heat forced the glaciers in the Sierra Nevada to melt more than it should. As a direct result, the usually calm Merced River was forced to make some room for more fresh water. Apparently, the River failed to accommodate the huge water quantity and went over its limit. Thus, the whole Valley was flooded with the water depth was well over 5 feet. With that depth, even a bus would have been flooded.

From where I stood, I would see a lake for certain.

To the east, Half Dome stands silently with the old Sierra Nevada on the background.
The Valley’s south wall was struck by the mighty Sun’s ray and I would imagine the heat was almost unbearable. The other south wall, where El Capitan Fall is located, was very barren compared to its northern counterpart, where we were. No doubt the heat changed the vegetation. Down in the Valley, conifer trees take up the entire place along the flowing Merced River with a small Chapel standing quietly somewhere among the green trees. The wind was also noticeably strong but not too strong. Maybe suited in the moderate breeze classification.

After catching up with our breath, we went on with the mission. By 2030, it was already dark but we were still on the trail, seeing no flat site suitable for camping. Thus, we stopped awhile to perform both the Zohor and Asar prayer before the Sun succumbed to the Luna. Once done, we continued a little bit farther before we met a fork and the time was about 2100. One was heading to the Creek, straight to the Ten Lakes and all the way to the Tuolumne Meadows while the other path leads to Lake Luken, White Wolf and eventually to the Grand Canyon of Tuolumne.

The Sun was nowhere to be found in the sky and it was so dark, that the stars up high in heaven were visible to the naked eyes. I recognized a few of the constellations that I’ve always failed to spot in Michigan or even in Malaysia due to both pollution and geographical factors. As a Vulcan would say, it would be a logical point of action to stop and make a camp rather than risk being lost up in the high country.

Thus, we camped. There were two tents, one for Leman and the other for Epol and I. I had to share with Epol since I had a larger tent.

Firewood was everywhere so we didn’t really have to go far from our camping site to search for it. Once both the camps and the fire were done, we cooked and went directly to sleep. And it worth to point out that we actually slept rather early, at 2230. It was considerably cold. Luckily, the sleeping bag managed to conserve some of my body heat to let me to sleep comfortably.

Total distance traveled was about 4 miles, which is about 6 km. Elevation gained through hiking was more than 4000 ft.

The next morning, we woke up at 0500 and the Sun was already prepared for the new day. Unfortunately, I was not in the same league as the Sun. Nevertheless, I still woke up and tried to to join the Sun’s adventure.

Courtesy of Epol

Our first stop was some where near Yosemite Creek, the first blue line, southmost, drawn on the map. For a larger version, click here.errata – Blue Jay is actually the name of the species. Nevertheless, after checking the net for more information, I’m convinced that the bird is not Blue Jay (Cyanocitta cristata). The main difference is the bird that I saw had a sort of noticeable crown on its head while the picture that I found shows that typical Blue Jay has a smoother head, or a simple extension of fur behind its head. And also geographically, blue jay is mainly found on the east side of the Rocky while Yosemite is on the southwestern side of the Rocky. On the other hand, the bird might had migrated here and it really is blue jay and I am wrong about naming it after me. =) Thanks to Epol for correcting that embrassing mistake.

more errata – In order to make out my mistake, I did a little research about the said bird and found out that the bird was not a Blue Jay. As it turned out, Jay has a huge family. The Jay that I saw was Stellar’s Jay (Cyanocitta stelleri), the one species that was mentioned in John Muir’s journal. “Often mistakenly called the Blue Jay, this Jay is a typical member of the Corvidae family, sharing its loud calls, bold nature and scavenging habits with crows and other Jays.”(http://www.naturepark.com/stellars.htm, par. 2)

Categories
Environment Solar car

[189] Of Missouri-Rolla wins

University of Missouri-Rolla won the Solar Car Race, as expected. They also managed to break the record set by the University of Michigan Solar Car Team 2 years ago.

Congratulations but now, it’s time for World Solar Challenge in Australia. Michigan is still comtemplating on joining. As for me, I can’t risk to not attend the Fall semester.

Nevertheless, I will still be the background crew for the team.

Quote of the day
“…Consumerism in the end will leave this world nothing but a broken shell. Unlimited wants and a limited rock to live on. We better find a way to travel the stars soon.”
– wyldwulfwytch, in a forum concerning whaling industry.

Categories
This blog

[188] Of new meter for the blog

Test for new meter. I hate grammar. Can’t live with them, can’t live without them.

Categories
Solar car Travels

[187] Of adventure in the wilderness of Yosemite II

Please read part 1.

We brought a ticket to Merced via Bakersfield (LA and Bakersfield are connected by a bus) at the Los Angeles Union Station and later, chose a spot in the station to rest. I hadn’t slept yet so waking up till 0400 hours was a little tough to do. So, after discussing with Leman, we planned to meet up at the Park’s Visitor Center an hour after noon. If we failed to reach there by the agreed time, he was going to leave the Valley, our hiking starting point without us.

So, he left with the 0100 train and us.

We were all alone. At least it was better than the original plan. The original plan was designed before Epol join our little party. With Leman got the trip planned up a few months up front (it might be a few weeks but you get the idea), I didn’t get the chance to follow closely his steps from Ann Arbor to Detroit.

The original plan for me was to get a cab from Ann Arbor to Detroit, get on a plane to SFO Airport in San Francisco (home of many cool electronic companies, such as Blogger.com and of course somewhere around there, the Googleplex, Google’s HQ), get a bus to from the airport to Emeryville, situated across the bay and from Everyville, towards Merced. Plus, the ticket price to SFO was about 10 or 30 bucks cheaper. But with Epol joining in, the ticket price to LAX seemed to decrease and thus, the ticket issue went to the surface no more.

Well, we didn’t get mugged in the station nor did we lose anything but time certainly crawled. I fell reluctantly into slumber and later woke up because my back hurts. It was 0130.

Slept again, but the chair was so uncomfortable. It was 0200++.

Slept again, woke up and still it was not 0300.

Slept again, woke up and it was just about 0300.

Slept again, woke up and I said “OMG, time really crawl slower than snail.”

Time really crawled I tell you.

I was about to sleep again but then, I bought a pop (pop means soda, thanks to Mike from Cambridge 300++ for drilling the term into my head) and stayed up well till 0500++. By 0400, the connecting bus was here. The bus was very punctual even at 0400. I wonder if Malaysian bus service will ever get on par with US standard.

We got on the bus and the bus had only 4 passengers; they were me, Epol and two other black guys. As I said before, I slept in the bus at around 0500. Had a weird dream but forgot what it was about.

Later, at around 0600 or so, my two eyelids reopened and I was amazed by the sight outside the bus. Both to my left and right rose rocky rolling hills up into the dark morning sky. The hills seem to cooperate with each other to form a high wall on both side of the road. From a more logical thinking, most probably the civil engineers decided to cut by the side of the hills. But in any case, there were a lot of naturally built hills on both side of the highway. The most breathtaking event on the LA-Bakersfield journey was the way how the hills suddenly disappeared to open up a gale and from that gale, a long, huge valley was formed. With the grasses in the valley that you could only see in Western movies swaying , I did hold my breath for a few moments. And there was a small lake, might be more suitable to be called a big pond somewhere on the right side of the road. And I had finally seen what I had read in book; the famous California Aqueduct. It looked like a huge drain but nevertheless, seeing something that shaped Californian history is something.

There were a few moments during all this when I was about to ask the camera from Epol but seeing him asleep made me changed my mind. So, I sat all by myself enjoying the view before falling helplessly into dreams again.

We reached Bakersfield about an hour or so later. Bakersfield, what can I say? It looked like a typical American town you could see in old blank and white American movies. It gave me the creep although there was nothing scary about it.

We got off the bus and waited for the train to arrive. Took off a few photos and drank a cup of coffee to keep my spirit up a bit. I wasn’t downed. I was just plain sleepy. It wasn’t long before the train reached Bakersfield.

Just before we got onto the train car, a conductor gave us a tip to get on the first car. He said that the first car is usually empty. I said thanks and went for the first car. True enough, it was empty. We went for the car’s upper level and took up eight seats just for us, four each. Two for my big ass backpack and two for me with a table in the middle. Cool huh?

The train left the town some time after 0700, almost 0800.

And shit, I lost my note. This is what happens when you use tissue papers as writing papers. I used tissue papers as note papers because I forgot to get a note book from Ann Arbor and I can’t find anything in Detroit and in Houston. I’m digressing but since I can’t find my note, I’ll just have to write straight from my head. Here goes nothing.

When Bakersfield was out of sight, Epol and I gave the galley a visit. Bought a fillet and some drinks. It was not sufficient as a lunch but I guess that had to do for the time being.

Before I forget, the scenery on the way from Bakersfield to Merced was less spectacular than the rolling hills I saw outside of LA. However, it was still great. From the train, I saw all kind of plantations and it seems like the grove expands to the end of the horizon. Green grapes or whatever it was grew almost as tall as the train’s two-story car. The yellowish wheat, it might be just dry grasses, grew almost everywhere and odd enough, it was beautiful. This was the biggest plantation area and the biggest valley in the whole America and I saw it all from the ground.

It view outside the windows didn’t change a bit all the way from Bakersfield to Merced. It was green and then it was yellow, green, yellow and again green and yellow. Too much green and yellow made me fell to sleep slowly. I slept all the way until the conductor announced that Merced was the next station. Of the two days of travel, I found sleeping Amtrak train most comfortable.

We reached Merced Station around 1100 hours. Merced Station was definitely smaller than Ann Arbor’s. I asked the man behind the counter where I could buy a bus ticket to Yosemite. The man told me to just go outside and wait for a guy. Convincing indeed but I was an outsider. So, I just went outside and indeed there was a lady asking “Are you going to Yosemite?” I obviously say “Yes we are”. Sounds funnily like a covert operation but what the heck.

Later, the bus came and picked us up. From there on, off we go to Yosemite.

The ride to Yosemite Valley was cool. The bus driver was talkative like hell, worse than the cab driver back in LA. Nevertheless, the driver was at least informative.

As we were about to leave Merced, I saw, I actually saw the whole town. The town is more pathetic than Purdue’s (no offense mates) West Lafayette. And this little puny town is going to be the home of UC’s tenth campus home. I wonder how the UC Merced’s future undergraduates are going to survive hell of boredom. On the bright side, at least Merced is much more better (notice the redundant superlative thingy or whatever they used to call it in grammar class) than Universiti Petronas back in whatever the town is called. And town at least has some aesthetic value. Boy, I am sure glad to leave that desolate university in order to attend Michigan.

Digressing again.

The scenery during the first half of Merced-Yosemite route was the same as the Bakersfield-Merced route. We were in the huge valley still.

During the travel, I found out that Merced (before I forget, it is pronounced as ma-sed, not merced as in Mercedes) means mercy in Spanish, a name derived from Merced River. The Spaniard, back during their golden seafaring age, traveled all the way from the east coast to modern day California. As they walked and explored, their water supply started to dwindle. I would suspect that a lot of Spaniard soldiers died from thirst. And then, they found out that God still love them and therefore, they saw a sizable flowing water. And Voila! They called it Merced.

Furthermore, as I have said earlier, the yellowish grasses that fill the California are omnipresent. This is the actual reason why California is called the Golden State, instead of the famous gold rush that happened back in the 19th century.

As the terrain rose, some oaks started to appear on the hills along the road. Their density became dense slowly as we move further uphill. According to the conductor, we actually gained something like 4000 ft vertically. It was nothing really impressive but it was kind of hard to see how we had gained that altitude. Nevertheless, the gorges and the valley sighted from far above seemed to strengthen the fact, or at least the conductor’s words.

And of course, Merced River flows on the left side of the road, down below.

It wasn’t until an hour or so until we reached Mariposa, a small old town situated almost in the high country. The town looks as though it had never progresses with time save a fairly modern bus station and a few noticeable satellite dishes. And of course, the cars but still, most of it were something from the 70s.

The bus made a stop at the town and later continued on with the journey. Oak density was getting out of hand until it seemed that they had formed a whole forest. The climb too had increased although I believe it was just around 20 to 30 degree.

It wasn’t until another hour till we reached the entrance to the Park.

There was a small ranger house at the entrance, giving out permit and that sort of stuff. The entrance to the Park itself magnificent, instead of a road with a gate, two rocks, which I can’t figure out whether it was naturally built or man made, sandwich the road, making it very tight to pass. The bus barely made it without a scratch.

Entering the Park was a great experience. Right after the sandwich rocks, we were greeted with a valley, apparently called Yosemite Valley with Merced Rived still flowing on the left side of the road. A few landmarks came up. There was a mountain top called the Three Brothers. It was called the Three Brothers since the mountain has three similar peaks. The first person to find it, a Red Indian chief saw it and somehow named each peak after his three sons. There were some other obscure details but I can’t recall it.

Then we finally reached the center of activity of the valley. First thing that was noticeable was how narrow the valley is with two sort of mountain ranges (the whole thing were still called Sierra Nevada. I thought it was the Rocky but in truth, it was a few hundred miles northward. In reality, the ranges are not ranges but merely a wall of mountains surrounding the Valley). Although it is a narrow valley, it is still wide enough to contain perhaps about 2000 or even more people at one time. The next noticeable landmark is the meadows. Green grasses cover most of the area where the conifer trees fail to grow at. While on the bus, I noticed that the meadows were under conservation project funded by Chevron. I simply smiled at the Industrialist’s hypocrisy.

It’s not that I think Chevron funding a conservation project is a bad idea. In fact, the Green needs every bit of help. However, the industrialist is doing too little to fight a non-petite problem. Similarly, how Bush is encouraging the development of fuel cell in order to fight the accelerated global warming. And also, in a way, they are only trying to shift public opinion on fossil fuel usage rather than having the conscience to actually help the public to fight the real problem.

Anyway, we saw El Capitan, one of the highest fall in the world (with the highest fall is Angel Fall in Venezuela), Yosemite Falls and dome shaped Half Dome rock.

We got off the bus some time before 1300, just enough time to call Leman on his mobile and told him to wait for us. Once that was accomplished, we went straight ahead to a nearly grill restaurant and filled our sorry stomach before the storm.

After we were filled, we met Leman later at the Valley Visitor Center. At the time we found him, he was chewing a bagel and talking to some guy whom was doing a geology research for UC. Once done chatting with that person, we when to the ranger place and apply for the wilderness permit with a bear can; a can that we needed to keep our food save from the black bear.

At this point, I was amused at the bear learning rate. I tell you it is fast. The black bears are able to open the normal screw head bottle. They are able to open all other stuff. Perhaps this is another reason why we need to keep the wilderness wild. A wilderness with a bear able to drive a car is certainly a civilized wilderness and scary.

After attaining the wilderness permit, we conducted a search for a burner. The search was a failure and thus, we decided to go ahead with the hiking expedition without the burner. After all, we did have two lighters, a solid fuel and a lot of fire woods. It might sound polluting but hey, I fight for a sustainable growth, not for “back to the primitive” as some people had portrayed us falsely. Speaking of back to the primitive, Soulfly sucks big time. With a full stomach and nothing bad going on yet, we decided to start out ascent to the top of Yosemite Fall at 1500.

And the pain begins here.

p/s – if you think Solar Car race is boring, check this out:
Cal Sol (Berkeley) arrived last night. Just outside of Tucumcari yesterday afternoon while they were racing on the interstate a tractor-trailer sped by and blew off their canopy. Then the force of air inside the car without a canopy proceeded to blow off their solar array! It lifted up, turned 180 degrees, caught on their roll bar and came to a sliding stop behind the solar car. Fortunately, no one was hurt and neither was the array. It only has some scrapes on the underside. They trailered to Albuquerque to be on the safe side. The team says they will be ready to start again tomorrow morning.”

Taken from American Solar Challenge, a report by Richard King from U.S. Department of Energy.

Categories
Travels

[186] Of adventure in the wilderness of Yosemite

The trip to Yosemite National Park was one of the greatest adventures in my life. My description might sound cheesy but nevertheless, it is true.

It all started during the last few weeks in the spring semester while I was heading to the Graduate Library to do some revision on economics. On the way, I met Leman and he invited me to join me on a hiking trip in Yosemite. I accepted his invitation somewhat on the spot without much thinking. I guess when you have the money, you tend not to think how you are going to spend it.

Later, I influenced Epol to join me. As a result of my try, he decided to drop summer semester and fly down to California.

A week before the flight to Los Angeles, both Epol and I bought lots of camping stuff and in the end, spent more than a hundred buck. With the ticket to and fro LA, the total became something like USD400.

During the preparation period, a problem struck us. The backpacks that we ordered on the net failed to reach our hand on time. We were worried but the bags somehow arrived a few hours before our flight. Thus, we only started to pack up merely four hours before our plane left DTW airport. I managed to pack all the things up but saved the sleeping bag. The sleeping bag was a stubborn item and it took me some time to figure out how to force it into the backpack.

Fortunately, I managed to keep the time right on track and got on a cab with Leman and Epol for Detroit at around 1500 hours on July 1st.

The trip to the airport from Ann Arbor took about an hour and USD40. I as usual, didn’t sleep and stayed awake all the way to the airport.

By the time we reached the terminal, we had two more hours to burn. A good cushion for us but nonetheless, we decided to check in early. Leman bought his tickets from Northwest Airlines while we (that were Epol and I) had Continental’s. So, we went our separate way and decided to meet up at LAX.

All went well until I started to feel that bad luck loves me a lot. We had gotten our boarding passes and went straight for the check in gate. At the gate however, a woman in a stewardess’ uniform told us that our backpacks were too large for the on board compartment. By this time, I felt a little bit irritated since I had asked the person at the counter nicely “Could I just bring my backpack on board with me?” and she said yes. And now, the person at the gate said no. B-E-A-utiful.

Wanting no scene, I adhered to the person and went back to the counter to check in my 50 lbs backpack. Once the bag was checked in, I had only a small plastic bag as my hand luggage.

Confident that nothing wrong would come to me afterward, I walked straight to the security gate, the jinx of my life. See, I have never ever passed a security check successfully in the post 911-era. I was stopped at the security check at the Empire State Building, at the United Nations Building and now, at DTW. I was no doubt, at that time feeling very annoyed. Plus, I had to wait for nearly 15 minutes to be checked thoroughly by the police officer.

Moments later, I passed the security check and only to found out Epol trying to hold back a laughter in front of me. I checked my hand luggage to make sure that everything was there. To my surprise, I had my knife in the bag and it got through. I was checked thoroughly, yet the knife got through. Talk about security!

Nothing else unexpected happened and so, we boarded our plane and headed for IAH in Houston, Texas. Epol got the window seat while I was sandwiched in the middle. Other than that, everything went fine.

We reached Houston a few hours later and hopped onto another plane for LA. There was nothing worth mentioning on our flight to LA saved that I beat the computer more than five times in chess before I decided that the computer in the 747 was the dumber than a 16 bit Commodore computer. And lo, LA’s view during the evening from high above the sky was magnificent. The darkness suddenly succumbed to light as the city limit was approached slowly. It was as if God said “Let there be light, and there was light”. It was for this reason that I stayed awake throughout the journey. I suffered due to the lack of sleep but every second of the sight worth more than a million dollar.

We were airborne and the next moment, for the second time in my life, I landed at LAX airport.

It felt so good to be back on the ground after being cramped in the place for more than six hours. After a good stretching, Epol and I went to baggage claiming area only to be delighted to find Leman there. It didn’t take long for us to get our backpacks and followed the planned that was earlier laid out back in Ann Arbor.

We left LAX by bus in hope to reach the LA Union Station and guess what? Bad luck loves me. After awhile on the bus, we found out that there was actually no bus stopping at the Union Station. Just my luck.

We got off the bus at around midnight in the middle of concrete jungle. LA was dead and we were in the middle of nowhere with a 50 lbs bag on our back. We were lost and decided to ask for some direction. I came up to this one guy and asked for the way to Union Station. This guy gave us the direction to the ghetto.

Luckily, Leman didn’t trust him and went for a second opinion. The second guy finally gave the right direction but that bad news was, it was seven blocks away. I know that I had once walked something like 15 blocks in Manhattan in the middle of the night but with a huge ass backpack on my back, I don’t think I could handle a mugger in LA’s ghetto very well.

It wasn’t until a few minutes later that God smiled on us. We saw a cab and decided it’s better to burn twenty bucks on a cab rather than being mugged. While on the cab, the driver couldn’t seem to shut the hell up.

By the time we reached the Union Station, it was already the 2nd of July.

And by this time, I thought I had already broken up with bad luck but the luck couldn’t just accept the break all the sudden. Leman got a ticket for a 0100 train to Merced but Epol and I was told that the train was all booked up and the next available train was on 0400. With no choice, we had to take what was left for us to scour. And so, we had to sleep at the Union Station until 0400.

What a luck but wait, it will get *better* as the journey continues. Stay tune for __earth’s adventure in the wilderness of Yosemite.