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[273] Of Jeb and his misadventure in Yosemite NP, California; X

Please read part 1, part 2, part 3, part 4, part 5, part 6, part 7, part 8 and part 9.

The night was cold, the wind was strong and it was dark.

I was only grateful when the morning Sun rose against the mountains. It was almost 0900 hours by the time my weary eyes were opened. I quickly brushed my teeth, changed to my hiking gears and packed up the tent. The tent had two parts, one was the tent itself and the other part was sort of roof for the tent. The wind was so strong last night that I found the roof a few meters away from the place where it was supposed to be.

It was nearly 1000 hours when I finally moved out from my camping spot. It was disheartening to know that I still had to climb. However, the climb wasn’t too bad unlike yesterday. Later, I had to cross the river after the gradient lessened out. On the bridge and looking eastward, the river was as calm as a bayou but westward, the water plunged fiercely toward Glen Aulin.

After awhile of flat terrain, climbing was again needed but thank God hardcore climbing was not a necessity. Unfortunately for me, there was one problem; the trail was not well marked as the ground was hard rock. At one time, I thought I was walking toward the right direction but ended up just a few feet away from a hundred feet drop. Funnily enough, I was facing toward Glen Aulin instead of the other direction. Immediately, I realized I had gone off trail. So, I turned around and voila! I had no idea where the trail was. Meanwhile, the rattling sound was omnipresent and hell yeah it was scary. I am not a snake fan especially after sitting right beside a rattle snake a few days ago.

Not long after, I saw a few hikers from far. Knowing they were my ticket, I quickly ran toward them. A few puffing later, I caught up with them and found the trail. I just couldn’t believe how I missed the trail. There were a few signs indicating the trail but like I said earlier, it was not well marked. One of the signs that usually used is the stacking of two or three round stones. In my case, the sign was hard to be seen because it seemed to bland with the rocky topography almost perfectly.

I went on the trail, I continued on and human traffic suddenly increased. This made me to conclude that I was approaching the Tuolumne Meadows. Eager to end my misery, I quickened my pace.

After an hour of hiking, it was almost 9000 feet and the peaks still rose without fail though the landscape appeared to flatten out. Optimistically, I convinced myself that the Tuolumne Meadows was within a day worth of hiking.

And then, the forest opened up and thus leaving a spectacular open space. Utopian as it was, the Tuolumne River flowed against the backdrop of Sierra Nevada. Suddenly birds were singing and the sky was clear and blue. Of course, it was clear and blue and the birds were singing all the way. It was just that the surrealness of Sierra Nevada induced the sight and sound of nature, bringing the sound of heavy breathing and the pain of the scorching heat into the far background of the mind.

Tuolumne Creek against Sierra Nevada. The aretes is Unicorn Peak in the Cathedral Range. Photo by Epol.

It was as if the whole scenery was drawn by an artist. It was as if I was living inside an Adam Ansel’s painting. If I wouldn’t know any better, I would have thought it was the Garden of Eden.

I went to the side, off the trail, closer to the river and sat down. One part of me wanted to catch my breath, another part wanted to savor the moment. Only God knows how long I marvelled at the scenery quietly. And when it was time to go, part of me didn’t want to leave and the other part urged me to go on. Oh how I wish I would have followed my heart instead of my mind.

Tuolumne Creek against Sierra Nevada again, somewhere nearer to the Tuolumne Meadows. One of the peaks is Lembert Dome. Photo by Epol.

But then, I went on knowing I needed to go on, leaving behind a place I didn’t want to pass into the depth of time.

p/s – Joke of the day by Prof. Hamermesh: That girl is pretty 3 S.D. above the mean.

pp/s – The Great Lakes Zephyr describes The __earthinc as “an interesting weBlog of a nature lover and envir(o)nmentalist at heart”. I’m flattered.

errata – Somebody pointed out that the statement “It was as if I was living inside an Adam Ansel’s painting” is wrong. It should be “It was as if I was living inside an Albert Bierstadt’s painting.” The two of them were related to Yosemite and I had gotten them mixed up.

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Photography Travels

[227] Of adventure in the wilderness of Yosemite IX

Please read part 1, part 2, part 3, part 4, part 5, part 6, part 7 and part 8.

I moved on after having a much improvised lunch.

The Sun was getting more and more unbearable as the time passed by. Needless to say, the air was getting thinner and thus further reduced my lung capacity. I wished could just sit and take a very long nap instead of walking. However, I need to go on simply because it was the most beneficial option. Without food, the benefit of reaching my checkpoint, the Tuolumne Meadows was multiplied, causing it to have an exponential effect.

The journey to the top of the California Falls was tiring. The trail was tough to handle since rocks instead of sand made it up. I wonder how Leman could hike with only a pair of snickers; even with my toughened boots, blisters plagued me. Things seemed to be hopeless and hapless but I had no choice. I kept saying to myself that this will pass, like other unpleasant things in the past. This too will pass.

Despite feeling generally depressed, the wall of the mountains offered a great sight. I took the liberty of observing the wall expression and swore that I thought the mountains were smiling at me. I was bewildered and laughed for the first time in days. Looking at the sides of the canyon was really like looking at the clouds; you could see almost anything as long as you have a decent imagination.

After a light moment, I knew I was hallucinating. And generally, hallucinating beside a ledge of a trail, with one side falling down more than a hundred feet is not good. So, I garnered my concentration and stared at the mountains and unfortunately and humorously for my sanity, the mountains this time seemed to laugh even harder. Comforting enough, after a few minutes of tries, I assured myself that the mountains wall was just some unusual rock impression.

The sensation of seeing smiling rock wall had a positive effect on me and I began to believe Mother Nature was giving a hand. She played a trick on me but in doing so she lifted up my strength and spirit. She gave me hope by giving the impression things were not as grim as it would seem. For that, my love for her grows even more.

Hours into the day, I had finally outperformed myself. I was finally on top of cascade of falls. Dropping my backpack to the ground, I went to a boulder located in the middle of the river, overlooking the whole cascade of falls. The sheer height of the fall would have taken a life immediately out of a hypsiphobic. With a clenched fist, I smelled a scent that I haven’t smelled for years – victory.

I stood on the rock for a considerable amount of time, with the wind and the water vapor blasting against my face. There was just me, up high in the mountains overlooking the whole canyon down below. No wonder John Muir’s heart was broken when Hetch Hetchy was condemned in the name of progress.

At times, I wanted to jump, ending everything at that moment so no more will the excruciating pressure of life pressuring me. It takes courage to jump and frighteningly, I had the courage to make that jump. Luckily, I remembered a word of wisdom said to me a long time ago – it takes greater courage to live a life than to end it. In addition, there are just too many things need to be done. I concurred at the end that I need things to be done before I die.

I turned my back and only to be stunned by Gaia again. In front of me, the river was flowing towards me with a narrowly long, flat valley dwarfed by the Sierra Nevada in the background. The valley was not simply a valley. Conifer trees conquered both sides of the river. It was as if an elongated football field was present up high in the anything but flat mountainous area. The oddity equals to seeing a patch of green earth in the middle of the Antarctic.

I wonder why I didn’t notice the grand Sierra Nevada when I first reached the top but this was one of many reasons why I do not regret my decision to hike more than 50 miles with a 50 lbs burden on my back in California.

The sierra was beautiful beyond words. To try to describe it here would do great injustice and more, an insult to Mother Nature. But yet as Human, I can’t resist the temptation to describe such sight to friends later after the expedition. She was terribly beautiful and if she were the fairer sex, I would strip myself of my entire ego, fall to my knee, begging for her love.

Farther up front, about an hour worth of walk, Glen Aulin was in sight.

Copyrights by Saiful Bohari. Used with permission.
A cantilever bridge in Glen Aulin. Glen Aulin literally means beautiful valley.
Photo by Epol.

To my delight, there was a small sign indicating my goal, the Tuolumne Meadows was just over five miles away. Yet, the length doesn’t describe the true dimension of the path that I needed to take. Hundreds of feet needed to be swallowed to accomplish the five miles.

If I was given the chance, I would camp at Glen Aulin, be in the small grove in the petite valley. Alas, time was not my ally. I need to hike as much as I could if I were to catch up with Epol and Leman. Though it was merely a hunch, I believed that Epol and Leman should be waiting for me at the Meadows. I was betting on luck but my bet was a calculated one. True enough, as it turned out later, it wasn’t vainly made.
The Sun was setting when I was somewhere near the heart of Glen Aulin; the sky was turning red as the white moon rose to claim the heavenly throne. Yet, I headed on, struggling for the Meadows.

The thought of food, clean water, hot shower and all made me to ride on a faster pace. I hiked until it was dark and cold. Exhausted and hungry, I finally had to give up the game of catching up and camped. Up high, the wind was merciless, blowing as strong as a storm, giving me a hard time putting the tent up.

Once that done, quickly I changed my clothes and engulfed myself in the sleeping bag, hoping the mighty wind won’t be able to undo the tent, hoping that all this will pass swiftly, hoping no bear will come to my path.

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[206] Of adventure in the wilderness of Yosemite VIII

Please read part 1, part 2, part 3, part 4, part 5, part 6 and part 7.
Another day had arrived and this one had promised me an adventure that I will never forget.

Leman as usual was the first to wake up and I was the second. At that time, which was between 0700 and 0800, the Sun had already hit the sky and so it was sufficiently bright to force anybody to wake up.

Gradually, everybody lost their sleepiness and started to move on a speedier tempo.
The dying bonfire was again lighted, this time for breakfast. Breakfast was generally okay, some sort of soup eaten with few bagels though I was already missing West Quad’s scrambled eggs with well-cooked tots eaten with ketchup. And who could forget, before hitting the eggs and tots, huge hot bagels with blueberry stuck in between them. Along with the dishes, chocolate milk and orange juice to sweeten up the watery mouth. Lastly, a Devil’s chocolate cake as dessert. In the middle of nowhere, that luxury could only be dreamed of.

After breakfast, I don’t know why but there existed a quiet and strange atmosphere. All three of us were keeping to ourselves, packing all of our belongings carefully into the backpacks. I was the last to completely pack my stuffs. In reality, I was among the first to start packing but on that day, the sleeping bag was being naughty and as stubborn as a mule. I took me more than ten minutes of trying before I finally gave up and asked Epol to help me out with the sleeping bag. Thanks to Epol, shortly it was compressed into the lower part of the backpack smartly.

And so we left the spot behind at roughly 0900 hours. The awkward silence was still there and it continued – well, you might say till the end of the journey.

The three of us walked together, with Leman for the first time in the hiking trip took the lead with an incredible pace. With that, Epol and I were left behind together. I was in between Epol and Leman; in fact, I was considerably away up front of Epol. I hiked to a point where I exhausted and took a long rest. Minutes later, Epol joined me on the dirt, trying to catch up a few breaths. Once satisfied with the short rest, he got up a called for me to walk with him but I simply said you go first and I’ll catch up later. If bool is applied to the “you go first and I’ll catch up later” statement, it would not pass the and statement. This was going to be the last time I would ever see any one of the team members for about another 36 hours.

Some time later, I got up and hiked, hoping to fulfill the “I’ll catch up” promise to Epol.

Fair use
Location where I lost the team. Map by mytopo.com. Click here for a better version

I was hiking really fast hoping to catch up with Epol but along the way, the scenery was beginning to take my breaths away with every step that I took. Of course, the 50 lbs backpack also took my breaths away.

The trail started to go uphill almost radically and the rise won’t stop for more or less another 5 miles, of which in the metric system is (1.6 * 5); approximately 8 kilometers.
Among the wilderness, it was funny that I didn’t feel any fear. By any standard, I would be more scared of being alone in New York City or Los Angeles in the middle of the night than being stranded in the middle of the wilderness.

The view was magnificent. As I said before, I was hiking uphill. The canyon system was born roughly a few miles ahead, carved by the Tuolumne River and its sisters. As the river flows down, it formed a cascade of three main falls. The first fall was the Waterwheel Falls. From down below, the fall was majesty. With tons of water falling at such height, the fall was exerting an incredible amount of force to anything unfortunate enough to meet the water head on.

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams
The upper part of Waterwheel Falls. Photo courtesy of Epol.

I stopped here due to both exhaustion and the wanting to savor the fall. Never in my life have I seen anything compared to this. In Malaysia, the falls are merely cascade of streams of which hardly noticeable from the air. On the contrary, the Waterwheel Falls would be impossible to miss. The only way to miss it is to be blind. Of course, the Niagara Fall is bigger but Waterwheel offers a different kind of impressiveness.

To explain the kind of impressiveness Waterwheel gave, Bob Burd’s Sierra Travels sufficiently quoted somebody – “The water dashes 600 or 700 feet down a surface inclined at an angle of 50 to 55 degrees, a mass of foam and spray. At intervals … the water is thrown out in columns fifteen to twenty feet high, and in huge waterwheels of fantastic forms”.

From the fall base, I thought that the view from the top of the fall would be far more exciting and so, I found a new motivation to get up and walk all the way up to the top. But yet, I can’t help but notice that the trail up to fall top was as tricky as the trail leading up to Upper Yosemite Fall of which I had conquered on the first day.

On the top, I found myself meeting some new acquaintance, three Americans guys. We sort of walked together to the Meadows. To be accurate, we were racing and I was foolish enough to race with them. I was already exhausted at that time and the racing made me almost immobilized.

It took me an hour or two to reach the top. The Americans were the first to reach the top though the time taken by both of us was roughly the same. When I was somewhere in between the top and the base of the fall, I gave my poor muscles a treat. While resting beside the narrow cliff, a man in his 30s or 40s came across me from the opposite direction. As soon as he got me in his sight, he conveyed to me that he saw someone from Michigan way up behind, waiting for me. I asked “way up there huh?” with a stress in the syllable ‘way’. The man replied “Sorry for being so discouraging” and so I just smiled back and thank him for the information.

Looking down from the top, I couldn’t believe at the height that I had just climbed. And the falling water was simply beautiful. The water just before the fall was surprisingly calm as there was simply a mass of flat land at the top. Also, I found the three Americans to be resting under a huge pine tree. We greeted each other.

Climbing up the fall was tiring and so, I made a couple hundreds meters from the Americans before putting down the heavy backpack for another rest. During this time, I took the liberty of replenishing my water supply.

At first, I thought there was only one fall to be beaten but upon reaching Waterwheel’s summit, I found out that this is not true. Immediately, I lost my motivation to hike. When I saw the next falls, which was La Conte Falls, I felt a surge of anger and slammed the stick against a huge boulder on the side of the trail. As a result, the stick broke into two. I was disappointed upon seeing that because the stick would still be a kind of a help in climbing the falls. Therefore, from here on, I would be hiking only on my two weakening legs. With crumbling enthusiasm and lack of choice, I continued my climb.

Slowly but steadily did I climb. At last after hiking and cursing my depleting stamina, I reached the birth place of Le Conte Falls. I was about to celebrate my victory in conquering it when I realized, a few miles ahead, the next challenger was California Falls.

With low morale, everything started to go wrong. In the end, I finally felt being abandoned by the other team members and started to curse them in my heart. Anger started to burn me off but the worst thing that could hit any person stuck me in the middle of literally nowhere. It extinguished the increasing flame and replaced it with a hard cold fact – the realization that I had no food inside of the 50 lbs backpack with me saved two cans of mushroom soup of which probably took too much room in the backpack.

With that newly realized knowledge, my stomach was growling. And guess what?

A new knowledge struck me; the can opener was in a bear can, carried by Epol in his backpack. Though I had a knife, with the knife alone could no way open up the can. The can seemed to be made out of carbon alloy instead of aluminum.

The only word I could muster upon that cruel enlightenment was “holy fuck”. I repeated that phrase about five or six time before I started laughing at myself. You have two cans of food in front of you and you couldn’t eat because you can’t open it.

Immediately after I was done laughing, my mind was set to survival mode. I dropped my pack and started to look around for anything that I could find. Unfortunately, there were nothing much around but trees, rocks and of course the abundant water. However, one thing managed to attract my attention – a sort of berry plant. Though the berry was far smaller than a grape, I gave a thought of consuming it. It could be poisonous but at that time, I would rather die trying than dying miserably out of hunger. I had a few dozens of it and it turned out that it was not poisonous at all. In fact, it has no taste at all but left an aftertaste worse than that pinkish antibiotic syrup.

While eating the berry, I played around with my knife and got into thinking.

Can = fucking can.
Knife = not good enough.

And I saw some small stones. So…

Stone = useless bitch.
Knife + stone = huh?
Stone + can = destructive = no good.
Knife + can = no good either.
Can + knife + stone = hmm…
Can + knife + stone = food?

And so I tried. I held the can appropriately with my feet, a dagger in my left hand and a stone on the right to act as a hammer. With a considerable amount of force, I hit the knife with the stone against the can and voila! The knife went through creating an opening.

I kept on hammering the dagger, imagining myself pathetically back in the Paleolithic age.
From here on, I relearned an old lesson. Never become dependant on anybody. Not your parents, not you friends, not even God. The only one that you could count on is yourself.

p/s – The lack of photo is due to the separation. Epol had the camera and he is a lazy guy in photography term.

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Photography Travels

[200] Of adventure in the wilderness of Yosemite VII

Please read part 1, part 2, part 3, part 4, part 5 and part 6.

We slept like babies that night but woke up easily the next morning. I was the last to wake up. By the time I opened my dreamy eyes, the breakfast was served and it was great.

Once the stomach was filled partially, I undid the tent and prepared myself for another day. We were ready to leave the place by 0900 and left we did.

The day started easily as the path stayed flat. In fact, it stayed flat for another 10 or 15 miles. As in the previous day, the path followed the river jealously and so, the sound of the roaring river screamed at my right ear all day long. Furthermore, the trail was covered by tall and bushy trees, making our journey less painful.

Throughout the day, we didn’t talk to each other, perhaps each of us was trying to concentrate on our footing or just didn’t have the mood to talk. I myself rather be left alone most of the day. Nevertheless, there were times when we exchanged some thought, asking for help but never starting a conversation.

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams
Somewhere deep in the canyon

At one point, I was so bored and I sang Row The Boat for more than an hour, repeating the rhythm over and over again until my boredom reached another level. The only thing that prevented me from dying out was the sight of the river and the mountain on both of my sides.

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams
One of the few sceneries that kept me from total boredom

While singing, a group of hikers came from the opposite direction. One of its members was a girl with black hair, wearing a blue top and carrying a small backpack on her back. Boy, she was an angel. She smiled at me and I simply melted away. At that time it seemed, even my weariness melted away. He girl face stuck in my head and thus, I stopped singing Row The Boat and be with myself.

We hiked for another three or four hours before we reached a great place to take a cat nap in the heat of the afternoon. Immediately after freeing our shoulder from the 50 lbs burden, Epol and Leman went straight to sleep. I however, didn’t quite feel sleepy though no doubt, the rest was needed by me. I laid on my back with my head on a clean whitish stone, eyes wide opened singing old songs that I used to hear when I was a child. Later, I fell to sleep joining the others in slumberland.

The rest took longer than we had anticipated, more than an hour or so. And so, we took off quickly and quietly.

There was nothing worth mentioning in the second part of the day hiking. We simply hike all the way till about 1800 when we found a fantastic camping spot. There were a few tall confiner trees there and thus keeping the place sufficiently shaded. With the river a few meters from the camp site, it was cooling as the air was rich in water vapor. The river was filled with rapids, making the water looked white. Across the river, just after a companion of trees growing at the edge of the river, there was a rocky hill with the height as tall as the Dragster rollercoaster in Cedar Point.

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams
The mountain that captured our hearts

Now, last week, I went to Cedar Point, just a day before the biggest blackout in North America happened. Though I went to a few crazy rides, I still can’t believe I took on the Millennium Force, the once tallest rollercoaster in the world, with the maximum height of 300++ feet. The first drop felt like terminal velocity; I actually felt my body wanting to get out of my seat. The only thing that had prevented me from flying without wings was the safety strap around my lap.

It took considerable amount of my courage and patience to get on the Millennium Force ride. It was fun but Dragster was something else. No matter how hard I tried, I could never garner any courage at all for the fastest and the tallest roller coaster in the world. I dare to drive 110 mph but driving a car and riding a roller coaster with a maximum speed of 120 mph and as high as 420 feet, are two different things. Call me a coward, call me a chicken but before that, I just need to challenge you to stand outside the track and see how the train sped faster than you could say holy fuck.

Enough digression.

We stopped at the said camping spot and just sit there. We had not even planned to stop but somehow, we couldn’t resist the temptation to stop and savor the pretty sight.
At this time, the Sun was still high and we could have just hiked for another hour or two. Leman and I were in favor of walking but Epol suggested that we camp here for the night. Nevertheless, Epol somehow managed to convince both of us to camp here tonight.

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams
An upstream view from our campsite

By far, this was our best camping spot ever for this trip. In addition to God’s gift, the ground was not hard because white soft sand made up the earth. Standing on it was like standing on a thick expensive Persian carpet. And since we had lot of time, we properly planned the layout of the campsite.

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams
Some of the wild flowers found nearby

To celebrate the sight, we built a huge bonfire relatively to the others that we had made earlier. Even dinner was comparatively more luxurious than the days before. After dinner, we exchanged some jokes.

The best joke of the night was about a refrigerator, an elephant, a giraffe and King Solomon. The first question was how to place a large elephant into an incredibly small refrigerator. As stupid as the question is, the answer is to open up the fridge door, push the mammal in and close the door. The second question was how to get a giraffe into the fridge of which the elephant took the whole fridge space. The answer to this was to open the door, get the frozen elephant out, push the giraffe in and close the door. The final trivia was when King Solomon calls up all the animals, which would not come. The answer is the giraffe because the giraffe is stuck in the fridge still. It is an old joke but it never fails to crack me up.

That night, before going to bed, I raised my head up and marveled at the heaven above. I didn’t see any constellation that I recognized but there were countless of stars decorating the dark sky. Imagine what the others in the cities, full of light and other kinds of pollution, are missing. By God’s name, even the mystifying Cleopatra cannot possibly be compared to the alluring Milky Way.

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[194] Of adventure in the wilderness of Yosemite VI

After much thinking and waiting, I am officially member of Greenpeace. Thanks to Krons and Peebz from guardians.greenpeace.org.

This is part 6. Please read part 1, part 2, part 3, part 4 and part 5.

I couldn’t sleep well that night. The sleeping bag was useless because it was so cold; one could suffer frost if one had slept outside of the tent without proper insulation.

I was only glad to finally see the morning Sun. When I woke up, the tent was wet. I looked up and realized that we forgot to open an opening up for ventilation. Outside the tent, the dew was everywhere, making the sight freaking but charmingly whitish. It was as if snow had fallen in the middle of summer.

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As if snow had fallen in White Wolf in the middle of July

We packed our things up. My hand was numbed due to the low temperature but I simply ignored it so that we could start our hike as soon as possible. Once done, we headed for the restaurant where we had our dinner yesterday for breakfast; nothing good like a few cups of hot chocolate with English muffins and huge piece of omelets to start the day in the cold morning. While we were enjoying our breakfast, we overheard a few people talking about their love for hiking. It was kind of entertaining to listen to their ramblings about their experience.

By 0830, we were ready to pay the bill. It was during this time that we learn why this place is called White Wolf. According to the cook, who no doubt taking a few seconds off from his duty, there are two tales – one was that this place was found by a Red Indian chief named White Wolf. The other story because people in the past claimed to have seen a white wolf somewhere in this area, and thus the name.

Before we left the restaurant, or rather, a grill, we checked out a topographical map nearby. I found that the contour lines at the Canyon were very close to each other, indicating a very steep slope. Intimidated, I checked the other route to the Meadow, the Ten Lakes route. The contour lines were much sparse there and thus, I recommended that we follow Ten Lakes. However, I missed out something; though steep, we only had to go down while with Ten Lakes, the climb was terrible, ascending to nearly 10 000 feet.

Since we luckily spotted this, we went ahead with our plan to give the Canyon a visit.

After bidding farewell to White Wolf, we went back south in order to take the trail that leads to the Canyon. We walked rather fast, considerably more than one mile per hour. It took roughly an hour before we met the junction that we passed yesterday. We took the path heading to the Canyon and continued on walking at a fast rate. Also, this was the first time that we actually sang songs together. Perhaps it was the singing activity that made us walked so fast.

It wasn’t long until we observed how the surrounding changed dramatically. All around us, burnt and fallen trees were everywhere. Dust would fly up to air whatever we do. I thought it was a result of a forest fire but Leman said it was artificial lighting, fire started by the rangers to kill the older trees so that its younglings would be able to grow without having to compete with much larger tree.

Although the process is for a good reason, I felt very uncomfortable among the dead trees. It was very Mordor-like.

With all the fallen trees, it didn’t take us long to lose the trail. While singing, we suddenly realized the trail had disappeared for good. We stopped and looked back. No trail at all.
So, we did a standard procedure. We put down our backpacks and sent three scouts to three different directions. Leman searched the front, Epol to the rear and I to the left. I made about 30 yards before I found the trail. I called up the others and continued our mission. This fiasco took us approximately 15 to 20 minutes.

It was among these dead trees and fallen trunks where we got ourselves our very own walking sticks.

All went well after that, at least for that episode. It was here, in the fire-scarred place that we met an impressive hiker. This guys, around his 30’s or early 40’s, armed with a pair of composite walking sticks in both hands with a small backpack, a bit larger than a third of mine, stopped to have a chat with us. While chatting, we came to learn this guy actually hiked 20 miles in one day, all the way from the Tuolumne Meadow and was already about another five or six miles to White Wolf. Furthermore, he told us that he was going to follow the path leading to the Ten Lakes and all the way back to the Meadow. Some people are born to hike.

It wasn’t long until Mordor became something else. As we came closer to the Canyon, I realized that I do recognize the large trees around me. After much mind searching, I remembered Star Wars VI: Return of the Jedi was set on Endor, a jungle planet where the Empire had the Death Star II orbited. The feeling and the sight was very similar to the movie minus the undergrowth. Here, the forest doesn’t have a jungle characteristic. The earth is clean, almost clear of mere stem-plants and full of potpourri. I was almost sure that Star Wars was shot here but nevertheless, the movie was shot somewhere a few hundred miles north of Yosemite. To be accurate, near Crescent City, a place located in California, near Oregon.

By noon, the previously flat earth changed into a bit more challenging and our pace was slowed as a direct result. Later, we finally decided to take a noon rest. We stopped, put our backpacks onto the ground and drank a lot of water. However, we didn’t sit and have a rest. Rather, we realized that the hill on our right seemed to offer a spectacular view from its peak and hoped that the Canyon would be in sight from the peak. Together, we walked towards the hill peak.

On the way up, we saw a bunch of flowers in colonies that looked like a white lily on the ground. They were beautiful despite being wild as oppose to cared garden in the city.

On top, there was no sight of the Canyon but the view was indeed spectacular. We saw rolling hills filling a huge valley with tall conifer trees growing as if it is omnipresent. We took our time up there, enjoying the view, sleeping and all things that are wonderful. Alas, all good things must come to an end. We returned to our backpacks, picked it up and again burdening our poor shoulders.

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams
From the top of the hill

It wasn’t long until we saw the Canyon and it was such a great feeling to see such a glorious sight. Again, we took our time to enjoy God’s creation.

I noticed while our side of the Canyon is blessed with verdant greens, the other part seems to be desert like. Down below, the river flowed silently. Maybe it was still too far for us to hear the roaring Tuolumne River. On far left, Hetch Hetchy Reservoir, much to the dismay of John Muir, was created in the name of development – the lame reason almost everybody gives in order to sideline the Greens.

And so, we, I finally descended down into the Canyon, down to a canyon for the first time in my life. We stopped no less than ten times just to admire the Canyon. Also, there were a few cascading falls crossing the trail.

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams
Entering the Grand Canyon of Tuolumne

We descended down rather fast, feeling not the weight that we carried on our back. On our way down, for the first time, somebody overtook us. There were three of them, walking with backpacks as large as us.

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams
The pond

At around 1600, perhaps near 1700, we saw a pond, mirroring the sky up above. I was astonished to see such a calm pond, clearer and cleaner then Lukens Lake. A few steps further brought us face to face with the Tuolumne River. The river was by far the wildest one I’ve ever seen and it gets wilder upstream.

Some rights reserved. By Mohd Hafiz Noor Shams
The wild Tuolumne River

By 1900, I was already exhausted and both Leman and Epol had outperformed me in stamina contest. We walked and walked but deep down in my heart, I frantically waiting for us to stop and camp.

It came as a delight to me when we finally reached Pate Valley, a place where another large river meets Tuolumne River. However, we had to walk for another 20 minutes as all the spots suitable for camping were already taken by some other hikers. I was holding back myself from trying to kill the hikers and get the site as our own.

In the end, we found a perfect camping spot right beside the trail, merely 20 meters from the meeting point of the two rivers. We set up our campsite and gathered firewood for cooking and heating. As soon as we were done, I took to the opportunity to wash up myself. It is a great feeling to have the cold river water to freshen you up; no mint, no Mentos, no nothing; only the cold fresh unfiltered natural water.

The Sun finally set at 2030. Usually, it wouldn’t be dark until 2100 but canyon effectively blocked the Sun. Even when it was six in the evening, it was started to get dark.

That night, we shared a few jokes and stories after enjoying an improvised dinner. While we were sitting near the bonfire, Leman told us a ghost story, told to him by his cousin who was a lumberjack. A pretty scary story but with some logical flaws but anyway, seeing a ghost itself is out of a sane person’s mind.

Yet, I slept that night, thinking of what actually happened to some of the people who claimed to see ghost back in the Malay College. Irrational or not, I am glad that I didn’t see any ghost myself back at the Big School, a building that saw two World Wars with second one happened right under its corridors.

The Big School, an old building that housed three Houses that, given the chance, would have presented a united front against a common enemy, House Mohammad Shah. That was back then.

Now, such tradition no longer possible thanks to the school administrator. No longer could anybody refers the West Wing as House Sulaiman, no longer could one refers the East Wing to House Ahmad, no longer could somebody refers the Overfloor to House Idris and no longer could everybody insult the Pavilion so one could insult House Muhammad Shah.

I fell asleep that night, remembering a teacher that once slapped me in the face for a false accusation. I fell asleep realizing how much I am missing the Malay College of Kuala Kangsar.